Consistently Delicious: Guajillo

This week in the DC area has been anything but normal. With another foot and a half of snow expected today on top of the 2 feet that is already on the ground, the region is at a virtual stand still. Because of the Federal government closures, B has been off, and I have been working from home. The result is that by the end of the day we are both itching to get out and are lucky enough to be able to walk to some great places.

Last night we headed to one of our standbys: Guajillo. While we visit often, I do not think I have given this place its due on my blog. The food is great, really authentic, and consistent. The service is also excellent, and the atmosphere is fun with brightly painted walls, comfortable stretched leather chairs, and a small bar up back.

I started with an excellent house margarita. Their drinks are strong, the sour mix is homemade (i.e., not fluorescent green) and the tequila selection is pretty decent. After a sip I momentarily forgot that we had to trudge back up a snow laden hill after dinner. B had the Dos Equis Amber, the one draft beer selection. And a fresh basket of chips with a spicy salsa soon arrived to compliment the drinks.

Last night was not a typical night at Guajillo due to the snow and some of the busboys were stepping up as waiters. While our busboy-turned-waiter's English was not the best, he had a great attitude and was knowledgeable and enthusiastic about the food. He also let us know Guajillo serves brunch, so now we are looking forward to a Sunday of huevos rancheros soon.

Last night there was a new option on the menu, a sampler of five tacos: roasted pork with pickled red onion, fish with cream sauce, lamb, pork with pineapple, and steak, all served on homemade corn tortillas with both red and green salsa on the side. I opted for this dish because I like everything I have ever tried at Guajillo and this allowed me the best of all worlds. It was fabulous. The fish was fresh and offset by red cabbage, the pork tender, and the lamb succulent. All five offered rich, varied flavors and I wish I had my camera with me, because the presentation was stellar. B opted for the beef enchiladas which were served with refried beans and rice.

It was a great meal and a tremendous value. The total with tax and tip was $52.

And an interesting note, while Guajillo was packed, Ray's Hellburger next door was almost empty. I think it is indicative of the fact that since Obama visited, patrons that drive in must predominate, and neighborhood folks might have given up due to the crowds. I am hoping the bigger Hellburger location solves this issue.

I was very happy with the our dinner and had enough energy to trudge back up the hill and stop into our local pub to meet fellow snowed-in neighbors for a nightcap.

Eating Around Blizzard 2010 Edition

I just ventured outside and was quite surprised by how much is actually open today. Very few cars, lots and lots of people, and almost every bar is open.

Here is the rundown:

Our go-to neighborhood bar is open. While their food has gone downhill as of late, this month's featured micro beer is Abita Turbo Dog which sounds pretty good on a day like this.

Despite massive snow drifts, both the Starbucks in Courthouse and Clarendon are open.

And this should not surprise anyone, but Ray's is open. And no, we are not headed there tonight, but if you have a hankering for a steak, I am guessing you can get a reservation.

And this one surprised me: Boccato Gelato, a fabulous Argentinaian-influenced gelateria was open and full of people swilling down hot beverages. This month they are paying homage to my childhood and showcasing Thin Mint and Samoa flavored gelati; we got a scoop of each in a pint to-go for dessert this evening.

Whole Foods was most certainly not open, so if you need groceries, the only option is Walgreens or CVS. No organic produce today!

Hopefully everyone stocked up before the snow. If not, plenty of beer awaits if you are brave enough to venture out (read: walk, driving is all but impossible). Stay warm.

Dino Revisited with a Verdict of Delightful

So you may recall that B and I visited Dino in December. While he was blown away, I was less than impressed. We went back last night, and I must say, my opinion has changed. Dino is very much a neighborhood restaurant, and after last night is coming really close to making my top five list. Why has my opinion changed? Two words: Hawaiian Swordfish.

But let me back up a bit first. At B's request, we headed back last night, a Tuesday. Our last visit was on a Friday night, which meant we missed the amazing deals Dino offers during the week. These include no corkage fee from Monday-Wednesday, which allowed us to enjoy the last bottle of wine we brought back from our 2007 trip to Tuscany. I actually give us a lot of credit; we have never been able to save a wine for more than two years. We thought we should enjoy this wine with rustic and authentic Italian food.

Also during the week, they offer a $37 three course meal that covers the entire menu and includes a glass of house made grappa, lemoncello, or muscato with dessert. They also offer a cheaper early bird option if you order by 7:00, which does not include the dessert beverage and is more restrictive with the entree choices.

Back to the swordfish. I opted for the more expensive tasting menu because of this dish and I was so glad I did. It was bursting with freshness and flavor, as if it had just swum over onto the grill. The filet was tender and the richness of the swordfish was enhanced by a homemade, winter hunter-green pesto, and offset by the citrus salad. It was quite simply one of the best fish dishes I have ever tasted.

Dean Gold, the owner, is constantly walking around the place, and I got to compliment him on this menu item. He explained that he only serves this dish in the winter, as that is when this fish has the best texture owing to its seasonal diet. His knowledge and zeal for his menu definitely added to the experience.

We also enjoyed cured meats, a delicious imported Burata mozzarella complete with curds flown in bi-weekly from Italy, as well as a rich brownie cake and poached pear desserts. B adores the grappa and I really enjoy the muscato, so the meal was rounded out nicely.

All this in an environment that is relaxed and friendly. My one complaint was our sever, who was attentive yet a tad indifferent and uncurious about the menu, which contrasted greatly with Dean's approach to his restaurant.

The bill with tax and tip (remember no corkage fees), three courses each and dessert drinks was just over $100. I can now say that we will be back.

Ray's The Expansion

On my metro ride to work this morning I was treated to an update on all things Ray's...

For any other Ray's fanatics, check out the newest happening on the link above. I am especially excited about this:

Landrum's evolution will certainly be on display at Ray's the Glass in the same building as Ray's: The Steaks. It was conceived as a wine bar and lounge; hence the name. But Landrum and sommelier Mark Slater, formerly of Citronelle, are launching a version of the kind of restaurant that Landrum loves to hate. Ray's: The Glass will offer reservations and private dining rooms where diners can order one of several "ambitious" set menus created with wine in mind.

While I love a good steak, lately it has been the wine that has drawn me back to Ray's the Steaks way more than I should (read: every other week for the past two months), so I am looking forward to other food options to go with that wine.

The Ultimate DC Cupcake: Georgetown Cupcake or Baked and Wired?

Baked and Wired Cupcake,

Photo Courtesy of the Washington Post

DC is home to a number of followers in the latest food trends; in the last few years, several gourmet cupcake bakeries have sprung up akin to the New York City leaders in the craft. They range from the terrible to the divine. In the latter category, two local shops really stand out: Georgetown Cupcake and Baked and Wired.

Yesterday afternoon, after B's and my respective Sunday morning rituals, we stopped by Georgetown Cupcake for the first time in almost a year. The reason for this hiatus was not the cupcakes, but the inevitable frustration of the old locale's cramped space and inefficient management of their ridiculously long lines. Georgetown Cupcake recently moved to a new location on M Street which is much bigger and better designed, if only slightly more efficient. The issue with the new space is that the street entrance forces customers to cut through the line to get in line, but, unlike in the old storefront, customers order and pay the cashier first, and then you wait for their cupcakes.

These treats are $2.75 each and the flavors rotate daily with some staples making a constant appearance: vanilla, chocolate, red velvet etc. The cupcakes are on the smaller side, but make up for their size with rich and genuine flavor. They are also cute. Actually the entire concept is cute from the pink boxes to the sugar adornments. Yesterday B had the vanilla squared while I opted for the chocolate mint. The frosting on both was a rich, whipped buttercream, and the cake was moist and flavorful.

The cupcakes are delicious, this chain is getting national attention, and we will be back and love purchasing these treats as gifts due to both the taste and packaging; but I think the true standout cupcake star is deeper into the bowels of Georgetown: Baked and Wired.

Baked and Wired is a much less-hyped--even though it has gained some pretty cool press--half coffee shop, half bakery. This place is a bit hard to locate, behind the C&O Canal but before you hit the Potomac on Thomas Jefferson Street. You will not find a line stretching out the door, or an annoying gaggle of college-aged tourists, but the shop is marked by a telltale hot pink painted bicycle out front. This is a much crunchier operation, leaning more toward the attitude for which places like these is often known. Their website is not flashy and in fact, and true to form, cuts off some key details, like the description of each cupcake.

The cupcakes are heavenly; they are more like individual cakes than a cupcake and are about twice the size of their Georgetown brethren. This is the moistest cupcake I have ever tasted, topped with a very generous portion of rich frosting that is denser than the butter cream used by Georgetown. These cupcakes run $3.50 apiece and are definitely sharable. My favorite is Teresa's Birthday Cake, but I have never tried one that I would not indulge in again.

If I had to choose (glad I don't) my vote would go to Baked and Wired over Georgetown Cupcake, but I have no doubt that we will continue to patronize both in the future.

Not the Cake Lady, but a Heck of a Boston Cream Pie

You might have guessed from earlier posts that I am an unabashed Bostonophile. When we got married four years ago we opted for a huge Boston Cream Pie in lieu of the traditional white wedding cake. Being the reluctant baker that I am, the spring-form pan that was on our registry has stayed pristine, complete with packaging until a few weeks ago.

Some very good friends gave me the New Boston Globe Cookbook for Christmas and I have been baking more lately, mainly because it is a stress relief from work and school. We were having a dinner party, and needed a new dessert, so I went for it. Though B baked his signature chocolate chip cookies just in case it did not turn out well.

I approached the Boston Cream Pie recipe with trepidation. The traditional recipe is quite unlike the bastardizations you see in supermarkets, and is basically a vanilla cake with a small amount of homemade custard in the middle, and is topped with a chocolate ganache. It is a three step process that involves tempering an egg; up until attempting this recipe my only exposure to this technique was seeing it on The Food Network.

Full disclosure: I am the daughter of Holden's famed 'Cake Lady'. My Mom is a phenomenally talented baker and used to do hundreds of amazingly elaborate cakes for her clients. When I was in high school, I somehow broiled a cake in home economics, and I think my Mom questioned where she went wrong with me. Fortunately, I have gotten a bit better at baking since then. And my Mom--probably given her profession--is very good at talking through the steps of cake baking and her advice for this recipe was no exception.

This recipe turned out to be not as difficult as I imagined--if time consuming--and yielded a fantastically moist cake. And if you'd like to--as someone would say--"turn the volume up" on this recipe, use a luxurious unsweetened chocolate (all you need is one ounce or so) for the icing.

And after making a huge cake two weeks in a row, B found a 4.5 inch spring-form pan so we (we=he) can enjoy this treat even when we aren't entertaining.

Thanks Mom.

Homemade Bread

I like nothing more than a carb-laden treat and what is more the essence of such than fresh baked bread? Not much. So when B discovered this New York Times recipe for no-knead bread that went viral last year (we are a bit behind the curve), I was thrilled.

For this bread, all you need is yeast, flour, water, dutch oven, and--most importantly--time. No pesky kneading and then kneading again… you get the idea.

When B first made the dough, I was skeptical. It looks like a gloppy, sticky, white alien blob. And the scariest part, this blob doubles in size over the course of about 14 hours. At that point, you simply remove it from the bowl, fold it in a ball upon itself, and let it rise for another 20 minutes. Then into the dutch oven it goes.

The end result speaks for itself:

We discovered that King Arthur flour makes for a superior dough and finished product. And how did we get so smart? From the no-knead bread exemplar on B’s other new obsession: Garden Fork TV. He loves it; I think it is annoying. But we both agree that this doughy on the inside, crusty on the outside bread is great.

Lunch Break: Zengo DC

I am starting a new blog segment: Lunch Break. My idea is to profile downtown restaurants that offer weekday lunch specials or other sit-down spots that are a good option for a weekday break. I spend about half my week in the Gallery Place/Metro Center section of DC, and am intrigued by the number of lunch deals ranging from Proof to Zola.

Now I can't promise this feature will be published on a regular basis; I account for every minute of each billable hour, which often really means I either have no time for a regular lunch break or would rather not have to make up the time later in the day or month. But maybe by starting this feature, I will force myself to get out more, decompress, and hopefully try some great food at the same time.

First up: Zengo. This fusion Latin-Asian restaurant is located adjacent to the Gallery Place Chinatown Metro exit and is offering several weekday lunch specials including: $10 rice bowls, $13 roll boxes, and $14 hot boxes.

I popped in for a quick solo lunch at the bar. The restaurant lobby and a decent-size lounge are street level, but the dining room and main bar area are on the second floor. The restaurant is a warm space with deep tangerine and plum colors.

I was seated promptly, and the service overall was very good. My water was never less than half full. Of course, neither was the restaurant. This was at noon and there were less than 20 people total in the entire space.

I opted for the fried rice bowl, which had duck, shrimp, and pork. I am not entirely sure what comprised the fusion element, maybe the pulled pork? I definitely got the Asian influence, but wasn't getting much of a Latin vibe. The meats were all fork-tender, but lacked any interesting depth of flavor. The rice itself was beyond salty (and I like salty things), perhaps to mask the lack of flavor in the meats. It did have scallions, diced carrots, and sprouts--all of which added texture, but it lacked the promised snow peas listed on the menu.

Overall verdict: SKIP. Way too salty and will have you gulping water for the rest of your day.

I should note though that there were large bowls of citrus, sugar, and mint leaves at the bar. While I would love to say I tried a mojito, this being a workday lunch there was no chance to do so, but I would consider coming back to the bar for a drink.

Just Okay, but Always Drawn Back: Faccia Luna

If you asked me whether you should head to Faccia Luna, part of a microchain in the Clarendon neighborhood of Arlington, I would have to say: "probably not." Yet why do I continue to eat there when I have Monday nights free? Let me explain. On Mondays, for 24.24 you get:

• Two glasses of house wine (not swill, but not something I would normally drink),
• Two salads (these are decent with lots of shredded mozzarella, tomatoes, mushrooms, romaine, and creamy, zesty parmesan peppercorn dressing), and
• A pizza with two toppings (the quality here varies wildly, from classic old school pizza to completely undercooked as they are trying to rush pizzas out of the kitchen).
  

This is the type of place where you find yourself saying things like: “the service is actually good tonight” or “the pizza is actually cooked.” So be forewarned that it could very well suck. And other than the bartender who is friendly and keeps a great rotating selection of beers on tap, the service is most always ambivalent and sometimes non-existent.

Why go? Obviously the price is appealing, especially on the first day of the work week. The food can be really good – never great, but what do you expect for $25 for two. The space is warm, and it is great to unwind after a long day.

I think I like the routine of the whole thing, not having to worry about cooking on Monday nights. However, I have been in an MBA program that meets on Monday nights for the past four years, so when we do go it feels like a bonus to not be sitting in class eating Subway (I won’t even talk to that).

So if you need a cheap date, and can keep expectations in check, this is the place for you on Monday night. Otherwise, you can do better.

Saturday Morning Sanity: Brooklyn Bagel Bakery

Since 2010 started, my life has been a whirlwind. There's lots and lots more of my day job--which is seems at about 150% right now--and at the same time I am finally finishing my MBA with an intensive project. Add to that the daily retinue of sleeping, commuting, and exercising.

So I figured that given the revved up daily grind lately, it would be apropos to mention one of my favorite local places that has been a relaxing Saturday morning tradition for us since we moved to Arlington in 2005: The Brooklyn Bagel Bakery.

This neighborhood bagel shop in Courthouse Arlington is the best bagel around. They are boiled in-house and then baked or vice versa, and come out perfectly chewy on the inside and crusty on the outside. The group that runs the business are always friendly and super efficient, serving the hoards of Arlingtonians that come in every weekend.

I also love watching the bagels being made from scratch in the back of this storefront cafe. It reminds me of my favorite TV segment as a kid, when Mister Rogers would show you how things were made. I get my weekly adult dose of this lesson by watching the bakers step-by-step bagel process. There is also ample seating inside as well a half dozen tables out front for the warmer months.

So even when my life gets crazier than normal, I can always count on a Saturday morning spent munching on half (the bagels are huge) of a chocolate chip bagel with light (to make me somehow feel better about the chocolate part) cream cheese. I highly recommend a trip if you are in the neighborhood. I am just realizing now that over the past four years, I have literally had hundreds of bagels. Not sure what that says about me.

A bagel with cream cheese is about $2 and goes up from there depending on the toppings.

Restaurant Week Pass

So it is restaurant week here in DC, and this foodie has no reservations, mostly by design. I have soured on restaurant week over the years for a few reasons. At most of the restaurants that participate, $35 for an appetizer, entrée, and dessert is either: 1) not a deal or 2) the portions are so big that no single person would ever order both an appetizer and dessert, so we end up spending more than we would have had we gone there on an ordinary night.

And the vast majority of restaurants (though there are exceptions) try to either rush patrons in and out or waitstaffs are indifferent. And this might be for good reason; according to restaurant staff I know, many of the people who never eat out except for this week are not used to tipping, and leave a pittance so skimpy as to be insulting.

We discovered a couple of years ago that some of the best restaurants participating have pre-theatre deals throughout the year, that yield better service in a lot less chaotic circumstances.

So after that Andy Rooney style rant, I will note that B went to Westend Bistro for lunch on Monday and swears by their tender, melt-in-your-mouth short ribs. Some of the better and more expensive restaurants like Westend and 2941 also only offer restaurant week specials at lunch; I do think that in this case, it is quite the deal. Unfortunately, my hectic 9-5 precludes my participation.

Having said that, I still like at least the concept behind restaurant week. During the slow seasons, people are lured to trying places they otherwise wouldn't try. Unfortunately, the experience very rarely lives up to the promise at most places.

This year, there are some gems. The newly opened and much-hyped Ris (headed by the former 1789 chef) and J&G Steakhouse in the W hotel are both offering lunch and dinner. But both have long been booked; despite claiming to be a great Foodie, I missed the reservation window!

Should you decide you just have to run out and get in on the supposed action, DC Foodies has a great write-up, including menus.

Local Legend and Cheap Eat: El Pollo Rico

Anyone that lives in and around DC knows that around every corner lurks another Peruvian chicken joint. When we first moved down here, we tried a few versions of pollo a la brasa and were not all that impressed. Well we may be late to the party, but we are here now and love El Pollo Rico, which has locations in both Arlington and Wheaton, MD.

This counter service restaurant evokes the appearance of a warehouse. You enter a huge, barebones room with a drop ceiling and are most evenings greeted by a line to the door. Not to worry though; the line moves quickly, propelled by an efficient, almost assembly-line type of service. This restaurant serves only chicken, french fries, coleslaw and a random assortment of a few sodas, juices, and desserts. And what they serve, they do extraordinarily well.

When you get to the counter you will note several fire ovens spinning hundreds of chickens marinated in a secret spice blend. When you order your chicken, available in quarter, half, or whole, it is cleaved into pieces (sorry vegetarians) and served up piping hot.

This chicken is absolutely amazing and makes the perfect weeknight dinner. It is always moist beyond belief with immense flavor owing to the marinade that seeps into the meat and crisps up the skin. The fries are steakhouse style and crispy, as long as they don't mix with the coleslaw served along side, which is a mild counterpoint to the flavorful chicken. The glue that ties the whole meal together (and always my favorite) is the two dipping sauces. Every meal comes with a raging hot green sauce and a cooling yellow mayonnaise-like one. These are best eaten together, mixing to your preferred degree of spicy.

I also love what a melting pot of people this place attracts. You are likely to hear several different languages and see people of all ages, shapes, size, and colors happily devouring that juicy chicken.

B & I usually get ours to go and find this meal best enjoyed with a Spanish Rioja or other full-bodied wine that can stand up the chicken's spicy marinade. El Pollo Rico does not serve
alcohol.

And maybe the most appealing part of this treat is the price. A whole chicken meal with two orders of french fries, coleslaw, and hot and mild dipping sauces is about $16 (cash only). You can't beat that!

Birch and Barley: A Night of Firsts

Last night was a first for us: a tasting menu paired with not wine but beer. We had reservations at the uber-popular Birch and Barley, a newcomer to the Logan Circle neighborhood. Our timing was fortuitous, as last night was the first time the restaurant was offering a beer tasting menu.

While I had been looking forward to sampling some of the 50 beers on tap and tasting the breads and dessert selections profiled in the Post write-up, I did not anticipate this experience. And B thought he was in for a night at a glorified brewpub. I am happy to report he was wrong.

Before I delve into our dinner, a bit about the interior. The gutted and redesigned space feels like a trendy Manhattan restaurant that has somehow managed to strike the right balance of chic and modern without being cliche. The room is a rich brown; a long dining room leads back to an open kitchen, all of which is lit by tiny orbs on the ceiling and glowing candles on the wall. The infamous beer organ divides the kitchen and chef's table area from the main dining space.

I am glad I had made reservation because the place was packed, and that is to say nothing of Churchkey, the bar upstairs, which was bursting at the seams with beautiful people. And no, I am not being vain, as we ate downstairs : ).

B and I were seated right at our reservation time and promptly greeted by a very friendly and knowledgeable beer-guy of a waiter. His knowledge of both the separate food and beer menus was impressive. The former changes nightly, and the latter offers 50 beers plus 5 cask ales in either a 4 ounce tasting pour or a full serving. Alcohol content, size, and the proper glass are all indicated on the menu.

We were overwhelmed with the size of the list, but I loved that all beers could be sampled. We decided to take decision out of night though and go with the tasting menu. If you click on the image below, you will see a detailed description of the offerings.





Without a doubt the best part of the whole experience was that the beer director Greg Engert walked us through each pairing. Greg's understanding of the history of each beer varietal was fascinating and we really enjoyed the descriptions of their origins; it seemed that we got a crash-course last night in the history of beer making throughout the world. And I will admit, I was also thinking, wow, what an awesome job to have.

Back to the food. The bread plate has been much lauded. The kitchen is run by a husband and wife team: he focuses on the savory, she on the sweet. The bread was in fact mostly great, all served warm. The Kalamata olive rolls were our favorite, followed by the pretzels. Both were crispy on the outside with a warm, doughy center and just the right amount of salt. The mustard that accompanied the tray was a miss with a bitter taste and a sour finish.





The first course was the best: Island Creek oysters in a green apple mignonette paired with a Japanese beer aged in sake casks. The oysters were exquisite and smooth and the slightly acerbic yet darkish beer paired well.

Next, it was onto a seared sea scallop with Israeli couscous and lemon confit. This flavorful, light starter #2 was paired with a Belgian brew from a tiny producer that literally converted an old garage into the brewery. While I was afraid the wheat beer would overwhelm the scallop, it had a smooth clean finish which worked very well.

The next course, roasted poisson (baby chicken) with spaetzel stuffing was rich and savory. But the drink that went with it, an Italian brew modeled after African beers, was like nothing we had ever tasted. It was musky, with hints of a seasonally appropriate myrrh, complex, and complimented the chicken. We also learned that Birch and Barley was serving this beer on tap for the first time ever in the United States.



Next came an earthy, tender venison loin served with a cranberry, chestnut wild rice stuffing and paired with another, but much darker Belgium. The venison was executed well and the heartiness of the meat was a welcome dish on such a frigid night.

The dessert was an apple beignet with cider sorbet, paired with a domestic beer from Vermont that is made (at least this is what I remember Greg saying) with an amber base, wine grapes are added, and finally champagne yeast rounds out the flavor. It sounds strange, but Greg's enthusiastic description was right on. As for the beignet, I would have preferred less apple and more doughnut, but I am unabashed lover of carb-laden desserts.

As noted earlier, the service throughout this leisurely two hour meal was impressive. And the stories and background on the dishes that Greg provided were such a treat. I also enjoyed having the opportunity to taste such one-of-a-kind beers alongside some thoughtfully prepared dishes. I can't wait to go back and bring friends--and request the tasting bar that abuts the open kitchen--to enjoy this experience again.

I do have one criticism that has nothing to do with the food, drink, or service. That would be the frigid temperature of the bathrooms. A little heat would go a long way.

The five course tasting dinner for two with beer parings, tax, and tip was $185.

Happy New Year: Thanks Mark Slater!

Well, another year down, and we are nothing if not predictable. We enjoyed our last meal of 2009 at none other than a block away at Ray's the Steaks. I know, I know, you think there's nothing new here. But, we did have an absolutely fantastic wine --a 2006 Seabiscuit Superfecta--as well as a fabulous dessert beer-- a Belgian Kasteel Rouge. Both were the recommendation of Mark Slater, the restaurant's wine guru, who is also a proficient harpsichordist, Europhile, and an all-around delightful person.

Of course the food was excellent (once cooked), and we started with the trusty, lumpy crab bisque. I think crab bisque is maybe one of the only foods where lumpy is good. A tart but sweet (thanks to the whipped cream and graham cracker crust) key lime pie rounded out the meal.

My one issue that seems to recur at Ray's is the cooking of the steak to order. I am a medium-well girl (yes, I know this is sacrilegious to all carnivores), but don't bring me a steak five minutes later and claim it is cooked as such. The first version was rare and the second medium-well. Now I also understand tonight is New Year's Eve a.k.a. amateur night, but, please. The service, as always, was quick to address the problem (I think they'd rather err on the side of undercooked rather than overcooked, given the ease of reheating such good meat), and we continued on our way with a great meal and a fantastic end to an equally fantastic year.

Here's to good eating in 2010!

Food Field Trip: Neptune Oyster is Truly the Boston Seafood God

Without a doubt, one of my favorite foods is lobster and one of the best preparations of it is Neptune Oyster's hot buttered lobster roll. This intimate bistro in Boston's North End specializes in the full range of seafood, including raw bar items as well as inventive fish dishes.

The tiny (30 seats including the bar) dining room is reminiscent of a Parisian bistro with marbled floors, tables, bar, mirrored walls, and large ice buckets teeming with bottles of champagne. Service is always pleasant and the food is fantastic. It is basically perfect except for one thing: they do not take reservations. I am a planner, so this wrinkle drives me crazy (last time we showed up we were quoted a two hour wait), but it is worth the try. This past Saturday B and I had perfect timing and got the last two seats in the restaurant within 5 minutes of arriving.

And December was a great time to start dinner by sampling some local oysters. We opted for three types of Massachusetts oysters and glasses of prosecco.




We settled in, soaking up the European ambiance, in addition to the conversations on either side of us. The dining room is quite cramped, so we got to hear all about an upcoming wedding to the left and, on to the right, watch a family squirm as the parents were delighted to share the seafood with their adult son and girlfriend, who both opted for burgers.

Back to us. First came the oversized homemade oyster crackers. These are much denser than the prepackaged variety and far less salty. They were a nice compliment to the oysters.




I am a relatively new convert to the raw oyster craze, but I now believe that you cannot beat the subtle contrast of taste, salinity, and texture between different varietals.



The homemade mignonette sauce had more shallots than most and the cocktail sauce had a great kick thanks to ample horseradish. These succulent and salty bivalves ranged between 2.50 - 2.70 a piece.

And then after time to digest our appetizer (service is well paced), it was time for the lobster roll, a $25 dollar plate of goodness comprised of an entire hot buttered lobster--and only lobster, i.e. no fillers, lettuce, or mayonnaise--served on a housemade brioche bun with an ample helping of crispy skin-on french fries.





As you can see, Neptune does not skimp on the lobster. It was cooked to perfection, succulent and delicious with plenty of butter to soften the roll. The fries are actually some of the best, darker in color than most; several diners asked if they were made from sweet potatoes (they aren't). The fries are salty, with a crispy outside and soft hot inside.

While the other seafood dishes looked great, we both opted for the lobster roll with a glass of white wine, putting us in a state of food euphoria.

Neptune Oyster does not serve dessert, and for good reasons. Not only does it keep tables turning, but there are ample places to grab a traditional Italian-American dessert item just around the corner. On this night, we were too full to room grab a cannoli at one of the many traditional neighboring bakeries. However, after dinner we did snag some last minute tickets for a laugh.

The bill with tax and tip came to $130 with two glasses of champagne, two glass of white wine, six oysters, and two lobster rolls.

And I leave you with a Hemingway quote etched in the restaurant's bathroom mirror:

As I ate the oysters with their strong taste of the sea and their faint metallic taste that the cold white wine washed away, leaving only the sea taste and the succulent texture, and as I drank their cold liquid from each shell and washed it down with the crisp taste of the wine, I lost the empty feeling and began to be happy and to make plans.

Food Field Trip: An Ode to Boston Tidbits and Treats

We spent the weekend after Christmas with one of my best friends: the city of Boston. Boston to me is like New York is to Carrie Bradshaw. I seem to just fit in Beantown. I never tire of the old cobblestone streets, the Beacon Hill brownstones, the sense of history and timelessness, its provincialism, and of course, the food. The weather is another story entirely!

Boston is quaint and walkable, with intimate small dining spaces that exude charm and warmth, and is home to some notable chefs. While I do like living in Washington, DC, it's big, loud, home to many who take themselves--and their work--far, far too seriously, and much of the city and its environs (albeit with some exceptions) is newer. So I enjoy savoring the sounds, sights, and flavors of Boston when I am able to get up there.

Here are some of the spots, old and new, that we were able to hit up this weekend:

First off, one of my favorite everyday lunches can be had for the bargain price of $5.50 ($7.00 with the addition of a Diet Coke). I discovered Anna's Taqueria about twelve year's ago thanks to a friend who was attending B.U., and I have not found a better burrito or anything close since. It has to do with the quality of the cheese and the way it is steamed into a thin tortilla, the skill in which it is wrapped, the savory rice, and of course the fillings.

I am slightly obsessed with this local chain, which now boasts five locations in and around Boston, all around college campuses. I think Anna's sustained me through graduate school and even now, I cannot imagine a better lunch. I actually prefer the vegetarian burrito, which includes fresh chopped grilled vegetables--carrots, three types of peppers, eggplant, zucchini, squash, and corn. Couple this with the rice, a mix of black and pinto beans, searing hot sauce and hot peppers, and finally sour cream and guacamole and you have achieved burrito nirvana. The quesadillas are also quite good and B really enjoys the chicken and carnitas burritos.

After this completely satisfying lunch, we were walking down Newbury Street on an exceptionally warm December Day, when B swears he catches a glance of someone drinking out of a coffee cup with the Wired Puppy logo. This funky coffee shop was a morning go-to spot in Provincetown, another favorite location of ours. I of course thought B was imagining things, but he was convinced. So we did what all good urban tourists do when they have not yet given into the iPhone craze: we popped into the Apple Store to look it up. And while the Wired Puppy website was not updated to reflect the address of its new location in Boston, Yelp was.

B was psyched. We headed back to Newbury Street, where the shop occupied the lower level of a brownstone. The interior was nice, with old brick walls and archways with Provincetown-style funk, including some modern interior touches and cool music. Plus there was plenty of seating--a rarity for a coffee shop on this street.



Now while I have never liked the taste of coffee, B goes to extraordinary lengths (and expense) at home and abroad to track down purveyors of the perfect beans and brew. He thought Wired Puppy coffee was the best he had ever drunk in Boston. I did however enjoy a chilled sparkling water for only $2, which is a relative bargain on Newbury St.



Our last stop of the day before dinner (blog entry coming soon) was the Parker House. Full disclosure: we had our wedding reception here, partly because of its history and culinary reputation. Not only was it the birthplace of the Parker House roll and Boston cream pie, but did you know its restaurant once employed some now-notable personalities, including a certain chef, dictator, and activist? The hotel maintains its sense of history and charm to this day, and this is especially true of the Last Hurrah, one of two bars located off the lobby. This dimly lit, comfortable room is staffed by friendly waiters who have been there for ages (thanks Paul), the music is standards, and the views across the street are of King's Chapel and Old City Hall (the latter now houses a Ruth's Chris). The martinis, shaken tableside, are excellent.

B always opts for the classic gin martini up with olives, where as I favor the Big Apple Martini made with an apple liqueur and vodka, and has none of the fluorescent green apple color or pucker. The martinis are shaken table side and served on a silver try along with some delectable warm nuts.



The prices for martinis at the Last Hurrah are between $10-12--up from their $7-9 pricetag when we got married there in 2006, but still a pretty good deal.

Happy Holidays

I hope your holidays are full of festive food finds and delicious drinks, enjoyed with family and friends!

A Meal for All Seasons: Chipotle Shrimp

This past summer I was fortunate enough to attend a dinner hosted by Rick Bayless, the man behind Chicago's Frontera Grill and Topolobampo. I wish I could say this was just an average night for me, but it was an all too rare event to get to hear firsthand what drives one of the best Mexican-inspired chefs in the country.

I also received his cookbook Everyday Mexican that evening, but having never prepared Mexican food at home, and frankly, being quite intimidated by this style cuisine as a home cook, I read it more as a novel than a cookbook. But in looking a bit closer, I realized that many of Bayless's recipes actually seemed manageable, the ingredients for which could be found at non-speciality grocery stores.

This is the backstory to a flavorful, reliable weeknight recipe, Chipotle Shrimp. Please note the recipe available online is slightly different (and a lot less saucy) than the one in the book, but the recipe is easily modified and expanded upon. I add a sprinkling of goat cheese on top and plate over basmati rice with avocados to make a one-dish meal that tastes like it took hours, but is easily prepared in less than 30 minutes. The spice and heat of the chipotles are offset by the sweetness of the tomatoes. The shrimp turn out succulent and tender. This is one of those rare dishes that crosses over seasons and can either warm you up in the winter or deliver a burst of flavor in the summer.

Dino: Decent or Delicious?

Dino is one those DC neighborhood staples that we have been meaning to try for a while. The issue is, it is in Cleveland Park, and not necessarily a convenient metro trip or cab ride. So with tickets to Zoolights on Friday, we decided that this would be the perfect time to check out this Florentine Italian restaurant.

We arrived about fifteen minutes before our reservation time and were cold and hungry. We were promptly greeted and seated in the first floor dining room. The space is comfortable, if a bit tight, with windows on two sides and a small bar area when you enter. The ambiance very much feels like a neighborhood spot with the owner walking around chatting up patrons with stories of Tuscany and the origins of menu items.

Once seated we were bombarded with what can only be described as an excess of menus. Not one but three different wine listings which were duplicative, the standard menu, and a separate placard on the seven fishes special (which was also listed in the regular menu). This was way too much paper for a small space and I would recommend some organization and consolidation.

We decided to order a bottle of Chianti (getting rid of three of the menus) and start with the buttermilk soaked, cornmeal crusted calamari with spicy marinara sauce and then decide from there about the rest of our food. Our server abruptly dropped the wine off at our table and said he would be back to open it. He then proceeded to take another table's order before uncorking our wine. This was a bit uncouth, but consonant with the casual vibe on the place. And from then on the service was on-point. The wine was robust and warmed us up instantly. The calamari was okay -- it should have been a bit crisper and certain pieces tended toward the soggy. The spicy marinara that it was served with however was quite good.

We then went for a salad of chicory (a winter green) with a sardine Parmesan dressing. Neither of us had tried chicory before and I won't again, whereas B loved this combination.

I found the chicory to be really bitter and the dressing weighed it down with an overly fishy flavor. B loved this unique combination.

The pasta entrees here were the standouts.

B had the free-form lasagna, which was a creamy plate of really delicate noodles with the flavors of pancetta, several types of cheese, and a light tomato sauce.

I opted for the cannelloni stuffed with duck and veal sausage whose earthy flavor was complimented by what tasted like a hint of orange or lemon zest in the cheese sauce.

When dessert came around I was really happy to see the option of a $5 glass of homemade grappa, limoncello, or muscato. I opted for the latter, B the grappa, and both were excellent and even more enjoyable to sit and linger over since what would become the DC snowpocalpyse had begun.

We also shared a piece of tiramisu. This was prepared in the traditional manner and was good, but not great. It was a bit too soggy and lacked a certain richness.

Dinner for two with a bottle of wine, shared appetizer, shared salad, two pasta entrees, dessert drinks, and a shared dessert including tax and tip was $130.

Would we go back? It depends on whom you ask. I thought it was good, but nothing compared to Tosca, whereas B is already planning our next trip.

Well, the weather outside is frightful...

...and inside the grocery store is anything but delightful. This was the scene in the Clarendon Whole Foods earlier this morning. I hope you are a better planner than me and went to the store yesterday before the DC-area hoards freaked out and ravaged the stores. But not to fear, we did manage to snag the ingredients for an excellent, cold weather meal perfect for weathering the storm.

Food Flashback: No Name Seafood

We are headed to Massachusetts next week to spend Christmas with my family and a night in Boston on the way back to the airport. A failed attempt to secure a reservation at Barbara Lynch's popular B&G Oysters (it's closed from the holiday through the 27th) reminded me of a total fiasco we experienced in August, when we were last up there. Since that was before I started this blog, I wanted to share as a warning to those looking for seafood in Boston.

We had not made reservations during that trip and planned to head to our favorite seafood spot, a tiny no-reservation restaurant in the North End, Neptune Oyster, where the signature dish is hot buttered lobster on a homemade brioche roll. But the crowds that the North End feast brought to the neighborhood that summer weekend made the wait over two hours. So instead we decided to head to No Name Seafood, a longstanding landmark on the Wharf. We had always said we were going to try this place when we lived there and somehow never got around to it. Which in retrospect we learned was a good thing.

If I had only one word to describe this restaurant, it would be gross. I expected this storied establishment to be New England-style rugged but not to inflict what should be board of health-worthy violations at every turn. We stood in line to wait for a table in a warehouse sized room with 70's furniture and with a mix of Russian tourists (maybe thanks to the plummeting value of the dollar?) and locals. We were seated at a sticky table (more on that in the following paragraph) and curtly greeted by an ancient waiter who could barely walk let alone serve. The poor guy must have been pushing 80, and was also responsible for busing tables.

Which brings me to the core issue. The typical cleaning of a table (which we mercifully took note of only after we ate) consisted of simply pushing shells and the liquid contents of steamed lobsters aside, and dumping the previous party's water pitcher into the new one. This made me want to throw up. Had we seen this before we ate, we would have guzzled our drinks high-tailed it out of there!

If you are still reading at this point, we came for lobster and got the traditional lobster/fried seafood menu item. At $28 a piece this was not cheap and the food was overall mediocre at best; while the lobster was tender and cooked just the way you want it to be, the fried seafood appetizers smelled--and tasted--like they had come out of a second-rate grocery store's freezer case. I should also mention that though they had beer taps, they had long ago stopped working. Draft beer seems like a staple when enjoying (or in this case, surviving) a New England seafood dinner.

So No Name should be a No Go if you happen to be in Boston. I'm sure it's in all the tourist guidebooks, but I am floored that it somehow manages to keep its reputation. You can get better and fresher seafood elsewhere in the city as well as sanitary conditions that aren't so unbearable.

As for next week's trip, we are hoping to have better luck at Neptune!

Lofty Expectations, Great Experience: Rasika

I vaguely remember having a conversation with a colleague two years ago about what a wonderful restaurant Rasika is, and how they really transform Indian food into something transcendent. It slipped my mind until October, when Tom Sietsema in the Post's Fall Dining Guide elevated Rasika to a 4 star ranking, putting it--somewhat surprisingly--in the company of Restaurant Eve's Tasting Room, Komi, and the Inn at Little Washington. So on Friday night, I was finally able to see if Rasika would live up to the hype.

I have no good reason for this delay. Rasika is relatively affordable, especially when compared to the other restaurants in the four star category. While you do need to make a reservation about 3 weeks out, there is really no excuse as to why it took us so long to try. But now that we have, we will be back--many times I am sure.

------------

After a frenetic Friday afternoon at work, I ventured out into a quite frigid night for this time of the year, arriving at Rasika tired, cold, and ready to start the weekend. The inside of the restaurant is a warm space, with light caramel woodwork, and is divided into a dining and a bar area, with an open kitchen in back.

I was greeted by a distracted hostess. And me being me, I began to immediately question whether Rasika was going to live up to my lofty expectations. She was a bit frazzled but within five minutes I was seated.

B and I were quickly greeted by our gregarious waitress, who took our drink orders. Again, the night was off to slight hitch, as the waitress mistakenly told me my cocktail was made with tequila instead of rum and could not remember that B ordered his martini with olives verses a twist and brought out both to be sure. I know this sounds incredibly picky, but a 4 star restaurant should not have these glitches. However, the waitress handled it well joking that we were her first table of the night and from there the night was flawless.

My cocktail was some sort of apple-fennel 'smash.' One sip and I knew the weekend had begun. It was refreshing with a slight kick. Though the gin and tonic was in fact invented in India's capital during colonial times, B opted instead for a martini with Bombay gin.



The waitress asked whether 1) this was our first time dining at Rasika and 2)if we needed to leave at a certain time to catch a show. The answer being yes to both, she went over the menu in great detail; as she was going over the menu, she noted that the best appetizer was their fried baby spinach and that while not on the pre-theatre menu, she would gladly substitute it. We were thrilled with this as we had heard great things about this appetizer. This also caught the attention of the table behind us who were being helped by a different server and had already ordered. Our waitress told them not to worry and was able to talk to the kitchen and switch their order as well. She really went out of her way to make their meal and ours a great experience.

We decided to share all our courses, starting with the fried spinach...



...and the clams caldine.



The spinach was simply amazing and I am at a loss of words in describing it -- very lightly battered and friend with phenomenal Indian spices. The clams were succulent and juicy in a flavorful broth studded with sauteed onions.

We ordered Kingfisher beers to pair with our entrees and this time shared a lamb and a chicken dish which wer served with white rice and two kinds of naan. You will note from the picture that I could not wait to try this and sampled the dishes before I remembered to take the picture.



Rasika really does elevate Indian food into something extraordinary. The chicken was tender--like butter--and served in a rich and creamy sauce, which was the best I've ever tasted. The lamb was also incredible, served in a spicier but equally indulgent sauce. This was so good, that we ate way more than we should have and ordered a third--oink, oink--round of naan to soak up the sauce. The beer was a good choice to cut the richness and spice of these dishes.

For dessert we both opted for frozen options, I got a taste, which equated to three huge scoops of sorbet: cherry peppercorn, star anise, and another flavor which I cannot recall. I was so full, but tried them all. The cherry peppercorn was the best of the three--sweet and complex.



B had the cardamon ice cream which he really enjoyed -- rich and complex.

I can't wait to go back. Though next time I would order off the standard menu, skip the dessert, and pace myself on the entrees. All issues with the eater and not the restaurant!

The total with tax and tip, two cocktails, two beers, and the pre-theatre menu for two was $125.

Two Dollar Delight

(Photo:downtowndc.org)

Today I had one of those perfect DC days, Christmas shopping in museum shops on the national mall. It was all made even the more fabulous by the salted caramel hot chocolate treat I had at the Christmas Market outside of the National Portrait Gallery. This two dollar Dixie cup-sized portion was the perfect sip of holiday cheer. (Cheesy post today? You bet!) It had a rich, dark chocolate base, which was complimented by the salty and sweet salt caramel flavor. I have been meaning to try Co Co Sala for quite some time, and I think this hot chocolate may have just push me over the edge. This thick concoction--served hot, but at a drinkable temperature--managed to be both sweet and a bit savory owing to the sea salt.

Good Brunch/Lunch Bet in Clarendon

The Ballston-Rosslyn corridor has more than a few restaurants, and I love living here, but other than Ray's the Steaks and Guajillo, it is pretty unremarkable food-wise. This is especially true when it comes to Sunday brunch, when neither of the aforementioned are open. Many places on Sunday --to say nothing of the bar scene (and much of the weekend evening clientele)--either showcase hangover-relief-pigfest buffets or a brunch menu that is largely crap masquerading as gourmet. So B and I usually end up at our reliable Georgetown brunch spot, having given up on most neighborhood options. But this past Sunday, we decided to give it one more try and headed to Liberty Tavern, which is a block from the Clarendon metro station.

When we walked in the host cheerily asked whether we "had the opportunity to make a reservation?" As the answer was no, and I was fearing we would not have an opportunity to eat, but the host instead pointed us to two spots at the bar area about to open up. The bar space is actually very nice--and the space meal-friendly--and was packed with other diners so we decided to go for it.

The service was excellent. One Jimmy, a friendly, attentive bartender, promptly took our orders, and while I was tempted to go for the house special $4 Bloody Mary with a chaser of Brooklyn Lager, I decided to be good and stuck with water. Maybe next time on the drinks.

While Liberty does offer a large brunch buffet for $18 that sounded quite tempting with the likes of hot mulled apple cider and reverse chocolate chip cookies, we were in the mood for lunch fare and decided to go with the a la carte options. B ordered the club sandwich and me, being a sucker for a good lobster roll, decided to give it a try. Both sandwiches epitomized their respective categories. B declared his club, perfect: roasted turkey, black forest ham, Liberty's bacon, provolone on anadama bread. My lobster roll, on housemade bread with plump and plentiful lobster in a tarragon studded mayonnaise, was terrific. The skins-on fries were crisp, tasty, and gone by the end of the meal.

As I write this I realize while it was a Sunday, this is more of a lunch review than brunch, but I have no doubt the buffet breakfast options may worth a trip back for a special Sunday occasion.

Lunch for two (no drinks) was $35 with tax and tip.

Food Field Trip: New Orleans Tidbits and Treats

If you’ve OD'ed on beignets (not that I am speaking from experience or anything) and have a sweet tooth (again, as if I would know what this is like) Bacco’s ice cream sandwich dessert is the answer.



The homemade cake (in this case a rich red velvet) surrounds La Divina gelato (this time a cream cheese flavor). This is a huge, sharable, well-executed dessert appropriate in every season. Their pastas are also excellent, but the dessert is always the star of the show.

While we went to the Po’ Boy festival Uptown for the famed sandwich (pictured below is the barbecued oyster version from Redfish Grill)…



...I fell in love with the crabmeat-stuffed fried shrimp from Sammy's Deli.



As big as a fist, these succulent Gulf shrimp were stuffed with a bread and crab mixture and served with a spicy dipping sauce flecked with paprika. A wonderful indulgence and for $6 for 2, the price was right.

I love the Cajun, Creole, and French-inspired plethora of regional cuisines that New Orleans has to offer, but in order to really appreciate those, I need a break in between jambalaya and Etoufee, since it is NOLA, there is no way I would go for a salad. My go-to spot for something different is Juan’s Flying Burrito, which is on a great little stretch of Magazine Street towards Uptown (about a $10 cab ride from the Quarter).



This hipster, Mexican joint offers reasonably priced, flavorful cuisine, especially the chicken verde enchiladas with huge chunks of grilled chicken, homemade green chili sauce, cheese, sour cream and hot peppers. It is spicy and oh-so-flavorful.



The accompanying beans and rice are just okay, but the portions are so big and filling and the margaritas tasty and cheap, that who needs a side anyway? Plus, you are in New Orleans after all which means your next meal can’t be far away.

Thanksgiving Revisited

First thought. I have a whole new appreciation and respect for my mother (just don't tell her and Mom if you read this, try not to gloat). Thanksgiving dinner preparation--even with a day off to shop and bake--is no easy feat.

Second thought. Cooking Thanksgiving while hosting relatives adds a whole new dimension of balance that I did not anticipate.

And having said that, hosting my first Thanksgiving was not easy, but was wonderful and warm and delicious.

Appetizers included roasted shrimp cocktail, brie in a puff with mixed berry compote, and homemade (by a friend) tapenade with pita chips. All three were big hits and easy to prepare in advance; the brie was cooked in the toaster oven and the shrimp were roasted in the morning -- leaving the oven free for dinner preperation. With the appetizers, we served 1+1=3 Cava, a great value and wonderful way to open the evening, by loosening up both the high-energy chef (that would be me) as well as the family exhausted from touring the national zoo in the rain.

And now onto dinner. First off, the rolls. James Beard's sweet potato rolls were absolutely the star of the show. While prep took half a day, owing to the dough rising twice, I was able to prepare two days ahead, par-bake, and then finish on Thanksgiving. This is a recipe that I found in the Washington Post's Thanksgiving Food Section. I highly recommend this for any holiday meal, but allow ample prep time and do not attempt to do the day-of.

Next, the Washington Post came through again with their recipe for apple cider glazed root vegetables, which are phenomenal, relatively easy to make, and allow otherwise bland overlooked vegetables like the turnip, shine. Just be sure to use enough nutmeg. The mashed potatoes were improvised yet simple but won more acclaim than expected; red potatoes, skins on, with melted butter, sour cream, chives, green onions, and a dash of Cajun seasoning, salt, and pepper.

And the turkey. And yes, I caved, got nervous, and ordered a pre-cooked (gasp) or in this case smoked turkey from Rockland's Barbecue in Arlington. And I acknowledge that this a bit of a wimpy way out, but I did not have a chance to cook a turkey prior to the holiday and when I entertain I am a much better host if I am confident, so Rockland's fit the bill. $45 for a smoked turkey with gravy. And B and his family loved it. I am more of a turkey traditionalist, but the turkey was tender, had a great smoky flavor and aroma, and the reheating instructions easy to follow.

For the stuffing I redeemed myself and made one of the stuffing choices from this year's Thanksgiving Bon Appetit: whole wheat stuffing with pancetta, chestnuts, and parmesan.

And for dessert we turned to one of of our favorites, Ina Garten's Pumpkin Mousse Parfaits. This twist on the traditional pumpkin pie is beautiful and a crowd pleaser.



And for a nightcap we joined B's parents at our go-to bar that also happens to be next door for a much-welcomed beer.

I am Thankful for... Ray's the Steaks

Wow. We have have had the inlaws in town since Wednesday along with my husband's sister, her husband, and their adorable two-year old daughter and it has been wonderful and exhausting and seemingly impossible to please everyone at the same time. Until that is tonight; we made reservations at Ray's the Steaks and were all treated so well.

Though everyone had been to Ray's before (B and I are creatures of habit after all!), tonight was truly special. After a day of family activities in our two bedroom condo (yes, it is as spacious as it sounds), we were ready to get out.

And get out we did. Mark Slater recommended a wonderful, full-bodied, and slightly dry Chilean Cabernet (Ventisquero Reserva) for $23 (which made my father-in-law's night on both the price and taste counts). And then the kitchen sent out gratis the deviled eggs made with steak tartare (which we actually have never had at Ray's, but the tartare rivaled that which we ate in France), as well as samples of the crab bisque. We then proceeded onto a mix of salads followed by New York strips and Filets in au poivre or brandy mushroom cream sauce. And everyone was very happy and more than that, I think in love, with their steaks.

Then we dove into each of their phenomenal desserts. We were treated to white, milk, and dark chocolate mousse (aka my reason for living), strawberries and cream, and key lime and coco not cream pie. Everyone from the two-year old to the if-I-mentioned-their-ages-my-blog-would-be-shut-down-in-laws was in love with these desserts.

And I am happy to report that with the change of seasons, Ray's has switched over from tiger butter fudge to their rich, cinnamon hot chocolate with the check.

And on the way out, we ran into dear friends, making Ray's feel like home (cheesy I know, but I am full and happy).

Thank you Ray's for a wonderful post Thanksgiving experience.

Oh and shhh but big news about the Ray's empire is soon to be released, perhaps as early as next week. Can't wait. UPDATE -- The news is out.

Food Field Trip: A NOLA Palace that is a Perfect Fit

(Photo: Business Week Online)

Commander's Palace (http://www.commanderspalace.com/) is without a doubt one of my favorite places on this planet (restaurant or otherwise). It is the grandfather of New Orleans dining, and while it was closed for 14 months following Katrina, I have been fortunate enough to visit three times since and in the spirit of Thanksgiving tomorrow, I am so thankful for this restaurant.

This past weekend we were able to take friends to the fabled iridescent blue dining mecca and it was wonderful. Commander's has the best and most consistently fantastic service of any restaurant I have ever visited. From the moment you are greeted through cocktail and wine selection, and, on this past visit, a post dinner tour of the kitchen and the property, you are treated like royalty. And this means a dinner experience that it allowed to linger long into the evening in one of the many varied and beautiful dining rooms.

Commander's employs team serving and you are in good hands. I love that you select your cocktail and relax before menus are even presented. This is truly a celebratory experience. The food is wonderful and I have never gone astray with the waiter's suggestions -- this time chicken and oyster gumbo followed by a flaky rockfish in lemon, wine, cream sauce with wild mushrooms and finally, a decadent bread pudding souffle with whisky cream sauce for dessert. Their dishes celebrate each ingredient which come together to form a unique and perfect whole.

If you are headed to New Orleans, I highly recommend this experience. An average dinner for two with three courses, wine, tax, and tip averages around $200. But you will leave feeling like a (fattened) king or queen!

A Study in Charbroiled Oysters: Acme and Drago

Even though I have visited New Orleans a half-dozen times, I had never sampled one of their homegrown delicacies: charbroiled oysters. We more than made up for this last weekend.

Our first food stop of the trip was the famed Acme Oyster House (http://www.acmeoyster.com/), located off Bourbon and Iberville Streets. After enduring the flight from DC and enjoying a "welcome to NOLA" cocktail, we were famished and not wholly prepared for the line that awaited us. But we persevered and were rewarded with seats at the Oyster bar where they were busily shucking huge Louisiana Oysters.





We ordered a dozen of the charbroiled oysters ($16.99) straight away and settled in with a couple of Abita beers. While waiting, I asked how many oysters were shucked nightly, whereupon the shucker responded with the precise and no doubt often-told answer: between a buttload and a shitload. Mystery solved.


Our oysters arrived bubbling hot and topped with a healthy dose of Parmesan cheese which had melted into the butter sauce. Once grilled the oysters cook down to plump bites with what looks like lasagna-type layers from the side. Each oyster was juicy and delicious with a kick of lemon and french bread for soaking up the extra sauce.




Two days later at the New Orleans Po' Boy Festival, we again got to try the same dish, but this time by the inventors of the concept: Drago's (Drago's Seafood Restaurant). These oysters had more char and less cheese and were equally as plump and juicy.




And while it is a tough choice, the winner was Drago's, but I may just have to go back soon and make sure I made the right decision!

NOLA Bound

(Photo: southernliving.com)

We leave for New Orleans tomorrow afternoon, one of our favorite cities for many reasons, including (of course) fabulous eating and drinking options. Right now our plans call for the ACME Oyster House, Hermes Bar at Antoine's, Commander's Palace, and the Po Boy Festival (http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/11/dining/11unit.html). And I should note if past experience is any indication I will also have an ungodly number of beignets. Stay tuned for the food field trip reports.

W DC Living Room Bar: Modern, Chic, and Pricey

(Photo: travelandleisure.com)

Friday night we decided to finally check out the Living Room Bar at the W hotel (http://www.starwoodhotels.com/whotels/property/dining/attraction_detail.html?propertyID=3279&attractionId=1004250472). Located across the street from the White House, and formerly home to the very much in need of a makeover Hotel Washington, the first W in DC opened this past summer.

While the hotel was and is famous for its rooftop bar with great views of the White House and mall monuments, we had not made a reservation and were not patient enough to wait in the velvet roped lined to get up there – owing to a long work week and a pressing dinner commitment at Ray’s the Steaks (priorities!). So we opted for drinks in the lobby bar.

We were greeted immediately by the doorman and entered into a space oozing with modern touches – (faux fireplace in the form of a flat screen TV on the right) and full of DC residents doing their best to dress--and act--like Manhattanites. I of course proceeded to trip over the welcome mat, so there was no question that I was not up to the level of cool, but I tried to recover quickly.

The W renovation transformed the Hotel Washington's stodgy lobby, with a soaring white ceiling complete with restored original moldings, artsy chandeliers, a huge open space segmented with couches, over sized chairs, and a wine bar at the far end of the room. This place is trying to be very hip and in most cases, they have succeeded. The music was a mix of every genre from Indian to 50’s standards supplemented with a house/techno beat. While everything on the wine list was of excellent quality, the prices were rather obscene with wines ranging from $ 9 - $30 a (the majority around $15); house cocktails were also available for $15.

We decided on a glass of the Gloria Ferrer (http://www.gloriaferrer.com/) champagne which we had enjoyed while in Sonoma last fall and were happy to see that this option by the glass was the low end of the price scale. The service was much more attentive than I had anticipated, and the champagne pours were generous and perfectly chilled.

All and all it was a great way to start a weekend and after a few sips of the champagne, I began to feel a bit hipper -- maybe it was the pulsating music. I am looking forward to enjoying one the W's new winter-inspired cocktails at their rooftop bar later this season.

Eating Around DC Takes Five Bites.

Eating Around DC got its public debut this morning on Metrocurean's Five Bites. Check out my suggestions for satiating fall dishes at Metrocurean's site on all things food, wine, beer, spirits, and related events in DC: http://amandamc.blogspot.com/

Present: A Diamond in the Rough on Route 50

About a week ago -- yes this is a bit of a delayed review, friends suggested we try Present (http://www.presentcuisine.com/), a highly-rated Vietnamese restaurant located in the suburbs of DC on the infamous route 50. I had actually been intrigued by this place, as Tom Sietsema gave it three stars in the Washington Post Fall Dining Guide, a really high rating, putting it on par with some great area restaurants. But I was put off by its location, as I prefer heading downtown verses out to strip-mall on what can only be described as suburban sprawl hell. But I gave in and can't believe I am typing this but the trip down route 50 on a Saturday night was worth it.

The outside of the restaurant is not much to look at, but inside is actually quite pleasant with a bamboo-toned dining room with a water feature in the center.

The service at Present is top notch. Our friend who made the reservation was greeted by name when she stated her reservation time, and while the table was not quite ready, the host graciously offered us menus and escorted us to a small waiting area. The servers take great care in describing every dish and explaining how best to eat each creation when as they put it, "Once you are ready to enjoy..." As an example, we were instructed to enjoy a beef entree by tapping the beef only once--but never twice--into the accompanying sauce for maximum enjoyment.

The menu items are all named with interesting sounding titles -- like Fish in Shallow Water, Basking on a Sandy Beach, and Mosaic Pathway. We started with autumn rolls, intricate rolls filled with pork and accompanied with lettuce, mint, and a tangy dipping sauce. We also tried the Smokey Petal, at the recommendation of our waiter. This spicy dip made of baby clams was served in a sesame cracker shell, and while the combination does not sound immediately appetizing, it was excellent. Both appetizers were beautifully presented and full of flavor with complex textures between the soft filling, crispy roles or cracker, and the leafy greens.

I wish I remembered the names of our dinner entrees -- something about a hard working pig and a cow standing out in a field, perhaps? We opted for four diverse choices so that we could try everything: vermicelli with crab, a crepe dish, beef, and pork.

Both of the meat dishes were standouts, with flavorful juicy beef, and crispy tangy pork that we agreed were the winners. The crepe dish was good, but was overwhelmed by a serving of greens that would make a manatee envious, and the vermicelli while cooked perfectly, would have benefited from more crab and a hint of spice.

Aside form the less than desirable location, my only other complaint is the portion sizes. While the appetizers were sufficient, the entrees, specifically the two meat entrees, were quite small. While they were packed with flavor, you definitely need to start with an appetizer and end with a dessert to make a complete meal.

The price for this treat was quite an unbelievable value, totaling about $125 for four with two appetizers, four beers, one glass of wine, four entrees, shared dessert, tax and tip.

Taylor Gourmet: Perfection in the Sandwich Concept, but the Details Need Work

(Photo: http://taylorgourmet.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/2_1.jpg)

One of my favorite new sandwich shops in the DC area is Taylor Gourmet (http://www.taylorgourmet.com/). Located in the quickly up-and-coming H Street strip, Taylor’s specializes in Philadelphia-style Italian sandwiches (think cold cuts, chicken cutlets, house roasted turkey), which are served on fresh seeded rolls delivered daily from Sarcone’s Bakery in Philadelphia. While I have been to Philly only once, the customers eating behind yesterday (in between bites) were impressed with its authenticity.

In addition to sandwiches, Taylor’s offers Rocky’s risotto balls, which are delicious, fried 2 inch rounds oozing with a center of mozzarella cheese and served with a tasty, spicy marinara for dipping. I think I like these risotto balls even better than the ones at Two Amys – though I am sucker for these treats and will likely still order them anytime they are on the menu.

Yesterday I ordered the 9th Street (all the sandwiches are named for streets in Philly), an Italian cold cut sandwich with aged provolone and prosciutto, capicola, and salami. And B opted for the Church St., Italian chicken sausage patties with roasted red peppers. And of course, we had to share an order of the risotto balls. The food was fantastic – with the starter of those addictive balls and meaty, chewy, flavorful sandwiches.

My biggest complaint/criticism is that yesterday it felt like Taylor’s was in fact run by two 28 year old guys; it is, and I do not mean to be disparaging, but the place is supposed to open at 11:30am and when we arrived at 11:40am, the restaurant was still shuttered with a line forming out front consisting of both patrons and the bread delivery guy. On a cleanliness note, there is no way that the place was cleaned since the night before. The bathroom was dirty and had no paper products.

So, great food, will definitely go again, but hope Taylor’s gets their act together in the execution department, particularly given their franchising in the metro area. Hopefully, yesterday’s slip wasn’t indicative of a larger problem or lapse in attention to detail as they expand (newest location is downtown, with another planned for Rosslyn).

Great Beginnings and Endings: Proof and Osteria Bibiana

Last night B & I experienced some of the finest cocktails DC has to offer. A friend was in town, so we met her at Proof (http://www.proofdc.com/). Despite its focus as a wine bar, the bartenders mix some of the best martinis in DC and this is often a go-to cocktail spot for us. Tom Sietsema, WaPo food critic, agreed in his latest dining guide (which will likely mean an even more frenetic bar scene), but last night we managed to snag a corner table in the bar. The bar area can and does get crowded, but the bartenders provide excellent service, the music is usually mellow jazz or classic standards, and the screens above the bar show images from the adjacent National Portrait Gallery. Plus, sipping a cocktail while gazing on the huge wine selection above the bar is always a treat. Last night, we really needed the martinis after fighting our way through a mass of Capitals fans on the metro. It was worth the trip; our martinis: a cosmopolitan, gimlet, and gin martini, dry, up with olives were perfect. Martinis average about $12 depending on the brand of alcohol.

Skip ahead three hours...

We ended the evening at Osteria Bibiana (http://www.bibianadc.com). This was our first trip and we wandered in around 9:30pm looking for a place to unwind with after dinner drinks and dessert. Bibiana opened a few months ago and completely transformed and maximized the former sterile Luigino's space -- rich browns, deep oranges, modern chandeliers, and oversized black and white photos of Rome. You are greeted immediately by a coat check and walk directly into the bar with dining rooms flanking either side. We timed it right and and were able to snag a lounge table. The wine list by the glass is extensive and ranges from $9 -$14. We were thrilled to see a Lambrusco (an Italian sparkling red wine that we last enjoyed in Modena, Italy -- yes, I am so chic, can you tell? : )) Anyway, the wine was great, a really rich red wine with moderate bubbles served in oversized champagne flutes. We paired the wine with a chocolate bomba -- a rich mousse based dessert with a chocolate crust, chocolate krunchies (their words), topped with a caramel sugar disk and surrounded by a milk chocolate fudge sauce. The two paired wonderfully, the service was attentive, and we are really looking forward to going back for dinner.

Anticipation: Hosting our First Thanksgiving Dinner

(Image courtesy of
http://www.epicurious.com/images/recipesmenus/2009/2009_november/355794_116.jpg)

Today B and I are spending a gorgeous fall afternoon planning for hosting our first Thanksgiving dinner.

We live within walking distance of a Williams Sonoma, Pottery Barn, and Crate & Barrel. While this is not always good for thrift, it is great for entertaining. Today we bought our first gravy boat and a double serving dish (perfect for entertaining in a small condo) at Pottery Barn and found maroon napkins with deep orange paisley accents, and delightful Irish coffee mugs which will double as serving vessels for the Barefoot Contessa's Pumpkin Mousse parfait at Crate and Barrel (pictured below).

And at this very moment I am listening to the Splendid Table (http://splendidtable.publicradio.org/) on NPR, a food radio which covers cooking, wine, traveling, and all things food.

B is sitting across the room, perusing the latest Bon Appetit, and musing (with both trepidation and expectation) that that this (the cover model turkey) what he wants his turkey to look like. Full disclosure: we have never cooked a turkey before, so we will see how it goes, but for now it is fun to plan!

Food Field Trip France: Le Nord, The End

While we did not make the trip to Paul Bocuse's flagship restaurant on the outskirts of Lyon for a number of reasons, including the time involved, getting out there, and spending 250 euros a person, we did want to at least experience a taste of his brand of Lyonnaise magic. We opted for Le Nord (http://www.nordsudbrasseries.com/), one of five brasseries located in the heart of Lyon, a fifteen minute walk from where we were staying. This was our last dinner in France and I hate to admit it, but we definitely started to suffer from eating fatigue.

Le Nord is a chic brasserie fronted by an open kitchen. It reminded me a lot of DC's Central in that the kitchen was visible to diners and bustling with constant activity. And the most noticeable difference between Le Nord and every other restaurant we ate at in France was the pacing; this was the most American in speed with courses following closely one after another. While the service was attentive, it felt a bit rushed.

As for wine, they had several house options from local producers and we chose two house pots (which are a little more than a half bottle) of Burgundy and a Bordeaux to compliment the meal. Again, we were losing steam so while I hate to waste good wine, we did leave a good amount on the table.



While we had intended to order off the prix fix menu, we instead opted for the a la carte options as we both really wanted to try the French onion soup and I was really eager to try the mushroom and scallop risotto. B & I were both happy we did.

The soup was beautiful and covered in a crisp layer of gruyere that when punctured revealed layers of cheese, bread, and onions swimming in a rich broth. This could have easily been a meal in and of itself. It was textbook French onion soup, that stood out because of the quality of ingredients, and the way all the elements came together. It was a rich, layered, warm treat that was perfect for a cool fall night.




My risotto did not disappoint either, though it was served in a deconstructed way with a rich, creamy arborio base, topped with several types of mushrooms, and lined with four large scallops in a rich broth. All the ingredients were done to perfection: the scallops had a nice sear and retained their juices; the mushrooms were flavorful and firm; and the risotto was creamy, yet al dente. And while I hate to admit to two lackluster dining performances on my part in one night (the first being that we did not finish the wine), I could only eat half of this dish. That soup did me in.



B opted for the veal scallopini which was served traditionally: a thin veal cutlet flash fried, lightly sauced, and topped with capers. It was very good, but the depth of flavor (or lack thereof) kept it from being great.

But, the real star of B's choice was the side: a steaming gratin dish oozing with macaroni and cheese and topped with bread crumbs. Last I checked this was not traditional French fare, but the quality of the cheese and the placement of a candle to ensure the dish stayed hot, made this one of my favorite dishes of the trip and the only time we were served any type of pasta.

By dessert, we were beyond full, but decided to share the chocolate mousse since we had not yet had any mousse on the trip and I would feel like a failure if we went to France and did not once try this famous dessert. The mousse was the perfect combination of texture and flavor, airy, yet with rich dark chocolate flavor. For any mousse aficionados out there, it had the texture of Central's mousse with the rich flavor of Ray's the Steaks dark chocolate mousse. And as if the dish was not rich enough on its own, it was served with a slice of brioche, which we were too full to even touch!

So while our last meal in France did feel a bit too American, it was also a rich, flavorful final chapter to a fantastic yet gastronomically exhausting journey through France. The total at Le Nord was 100 euros.

Food Field Trip France: La Machonnerie

At the end of the week, we arrived in France's food mecca: Lyon. The point of this, the tail end, of the trip was singular: to eat. Our first night we had reservations at a traditional bouchon, La Machonnerie (http://www.lamachonnerie.com/) La Machonnerie is located in the heart of Old Lyon and is fronted by a diorama of marionettes, a Lyon tradition.



We entered into the main dining room, a warm, bustling space, and were promptly greeted by a friendly server who to our surprise, spoke excellent English, offered us an English-language menu, and showed us to a large corner table.

B and I were once again really hungry, and were offered a plate of fried pig fat (yes, it is actually delicious) and a rich cheese spread. I am not sure if I should admit this, but we polished off the fried pig with cheese pretty quickly.



Next, it was onto the wine choice. We opted for a full-bodied 2005 St. Joseph which stood up wonderfully to the food that was to come.



The menu, while in English, was crudely translated and offered three prix fix options. Given the choices, we opted for the most expensive of the three for 36 euros and settled in for the richest four courses we have ever eaten.

B went with the salad, which sounds like a lite choice, right? Wrong! It was a delicious, rich bowl of leafy greens with onions, bacon lardons, and some sort of hearty, balsamic-based dressing.



I opted for what I would later learn was a Lyonnaise speciality: leek terrine. The terrine was served cold, and was a rich, textured foil to the tart mustard sauce and perfectly cooked crayfish tails. As you can see in the picture, this was a large portion and could have easily been a main dish.



But when it came time for the main course, the richness was turned up several notches. I opted for roast chicken in a morel mushroom cream sauce. This dish was wonderful. The morels are the meatiest mushrooms I have ever tasted and added both flavor and texture to juicy bone-in chicken thighs and breasts. B was brave with his choice and oopted for the kidney cooked in a wine sauce with baby onions. He loved this dish, and described it as tasting like an uber-tender filet mignon. I had one bite and hate to admit this as a person who loves food, but could not get over the fact that I was eating a kidney -- too rustic for me. The dishes were served with a leek gratin oozing with cream and gruyere cheese.



Next, came my favorite food moment of the entire trip. I selected the cheese tray and thought I would get to ask for two or three selections. To my absolute delight, the waitress went over everything on the tray and then left it at the table for me to self- select. I opted for the homemade fig cheese spread, a rich goat, a creamy cow, and finally a goat cheese studded with olives. I was so full at this point in the meal, that I only had a taste of each, but I loved being given free reign of an excellent assortment of French cheeses.




B's cheese course was a bit more modest, and was actually more like a sour yogurt served with an apple compote. B happens to love yogurt, so this was a good choice. I was to pre-occupied with my cheese tray decisions to taste his selection.




And now onto dessert. Before we selected our desserts we were offered house-made meringues the size of a baseball. We opted to split one as we were not sure if we were going to make it through!

For dessert B got the ice cream souffle, which was dense, tart, and decent, but not remarkable.



I opted for the raspberry sorbet because I thought this would be a lite choice to end the meal. The sorbet was placed in front of me, and then a waiter brought over a mini-wine barrel full of grappa which he poured on top. This is a dessert that will put hair on your chest. The sorbet was a perfect combination of tart and smooth, but the grappa added quite the edge.



This was the best and most expensive meal of the trip at $117 euros, and this was the first time I have ever woken up with a food hangover that rivals any hangover I faced in college. Well played.

Food Field Trip France: Caveau Des Arches

After Paris, we headed to Beaune, a walled hill town in the middle of Burgundian wine country. We chose Beuane to enjoy the wines and had the opportunity to bike from the center of this city through the wine towns of Pomard to Volnay and onto Meursault via a wonderful, and deserted bike path (this could have been because the weather was a tad cool -- 48 degrees in the sun, but we had come to France in part for this purpose, so we layered up and ended up really enjoying the ride).




Wine caves are prevalent in and around Beaune; we spent the afternoon sipping wine in them and then had dinner in a restored one at Caveau Des Arches (http://www.caveau-des-arches.com/). More on that later.

First was the bike journey. The bike rental place recommended Chateau de Meursault (http://www.meursault.com/meursault/fr/index.htm) and after almost giving up on finding the place, we finally prevailed. For 15 euros each we were allowed to roam around the Estate including through a series of underground caves, some dating to 12th century stocked with hundreds of thousands of bottles and thousands of barrels of of estate wines.

At the end of this eerie, dusty, and really cool maze, we were treated to some very generous pours of wine. It felt like trick-or-treating for adults; each new cave room we entered was set up with another barrel atop of which was placed the next wine to try.

The Mersault area is known for its whites, which actually have the mouth feel of a good red, and a smooth flavor. We normally favor red wines, but these whites were fantastic.

The whole experience was wonderful, but in many ways overwhelming as Beaune is the center of the Burgundian wine trade and the place where wine experts gather to bolster their Grand Cru collections. In fact, there was a conference of sommeliers from New York City at our hotel. We did buy a bottle of wine in town, which we will put in our state of the art wine cellar (cellar=closet in our guest bedroom). We are not quite at Grand Cru collector status yet...

When we circled back into town it was dusk and the temperatures had really dipped, so we were ready for a hearty dinner to warm us up. We had fortunately made reservations at Caveau Des Arches months earlier. The design job merged both ancient and modern accents. The restaurant focuses on traditional Burgundian cuisine, and, as with most restaurants in the country, had several prix fix options.

We opted for a wine with dinner from where else but Chateau de Meursault. We went with a rich red, somewhat similar to an American Pinot Noir, as we both planned on and needed meaty dishes for dinner after our bike ride through some very rolling hills.

We started with the escargot--succulent snails cooked in the traditional rich garlic, herb butter sauce and served with a rustic, crusty bread.

Next, it was onto steak tartare for me with potatoes lyonnaise served in a cast iron skillet. My main course was the paradigm of steak tartares. The meat was a beautiful, deep red color seasoned perfectly to bring out the flavors of this amazingly tender steak. The mixed greens were a nice crisp, tart compliment, and the potatoes were really just gratuitous, but nonetheless excellent, crispy, and full of flavor.

B opted for the duck breast in a wine demi-glace served with roasted vegetables and mashed potatoes. The duck was cooked medium rare and was exceedingly tender and very rich.

Then came the cheese course. The menu here was entirely in French, so I could not tell you the names or types of these cheeses. Both were soft, and the one in the front of the photo was smooth and tasted similar to a camembert. The latter had much more of a bite to it and I was glad that the waitress explained to eat them in that order.

I went with a molten chocolate cake dessert (knew I was getting chocolate, but had no idea what form it would take due to my knowledge of French being limited to 4 years in high school). The cake was made with dark chocolate and surrounded by creme anglais and also with a rich vanilla ice cream.

B had the creme brulee, which as you can see below was delicately caramelized. It had a great crunch with a rich custard finish.

This three-hour feast enjoyed under the city of Beaune in a wine cave was 85 euros.

Food Field Trip France: Chocolate Interlude

Let me be honest. One of my main motivations for this trip was of course, to indulge in fantastic chocolate at all times of the day. And I think I did a great job at meeting this ambitious objective.

In Paris this was due in the large part to the proximity of the delicious pastry shop below.

This is the spot where B and I started all of our mornings in Paris along with a slew of Parisians stopping by for fresh made, beautiful pastries. I discovered something I like more than the pain au chocolate -- though don't get me wrong, that is still a favorite. It was a flat, custard and dark chocolate chip filled pastry. I never got the name of said pastry, and instead would just point in the morning and say in my best french accent -- one please. I really wish I knew the name and if anyone reading does, please let me know! This was pure goodness in the morning.

Below are some of the dessert offerings from the shop.

Also in Paris, and we visited one of the locations of the La Maison du Chocolat (http://www.lamaisonduchocolat.com/en/#/home). This wonderful artisan chocolate shop offered a 5 euro petite indulgence of hot chocolate, macaroon, and a sample of their chocolates. This was a fantastic snack break from a day of traipsing around the city. The hot chocolate was obscenely rich and smooth. The macaroon was light and airy with a rich chocolate center. And the chocolates -- two dusted ganache balls, and two fruit flavored ganache (citrus and raspberry) -- were rich with just the right amount of tangyness to offset the chocolate. Postscript: I learned in writing this post, that they have locations in NYC, so I am going to have to check that out next time I am up there.

Our chocolate indulgences did not end when we left Paris; in Beaune and Lyon we switched to wonderfully flaky on the outside, gooey on the inside chocolate croissants. While oatmeal or fruit cups or anything remotely healthy at breakfast was not to be found, these treats were available at every cafe. Lucky us.

Finally, in Lyon on the main boulevard in the Presqu'ile area of the city we discovered a great, English style-tea house: Maison Debeaux (http://www.maison-debeaux.com/page/historique.htm). They had an incredible selection of pastries of every shape and size, as well as over-sized, American-style (think Friendly's) ice cream Sundaes. B & I delighted in the delicious pastry treats with hot beverages (tea for me and cafe au lait for B) on both afternoons in Lyon. Maison Debeaux has an upstairs salon and table service which makes for a relaxed and delicious respite and a great outlet from the cold snap that we hit during the latter part of our trip. Below is a raspberry, chocolate, mocha pastry with raspberry meringues.

Food Field Trip France: Les Papilles

Our last night in Paris brought us to the most unique bistro of our trip: Les Papilles (http://www.lespapillesparis.fr/EN_index.html). We discovered this part wine shop/part culinary paradise when reading a July NY Times article, "Alive and Evolving: The Paris Bistro" (http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/07/05/travel/05choice.html).

The bistro is a wine shop by day and a bistro by night. The set menu includes a soup, main course, cheese course, and dessert for 31 euros. Diners select their wine from the plethora available on the shelves throughout the shop and for a small corkage fee (7 euro) enjoy it with the meal. The wine bins on the right doubled as a table for our bread. It was a really interesting and well executed concept and great to peruse the wine selection in between courses.



As for our wine selection, we decided to try another Burgundy since we would be heading there the next morning and ambled over to that section of the shop, reached behind the diners seated there, and made our selection. This 1996 Burgundy was the oldest vintage we drank on the trip, and was more tannic and complex than the night before, standing up well to the hearty meal in front of us.



The soup of the evening was a cream of celery with celery, celery root, lardons, potatoes, creme fraiche, and a sprinkling of herbs. The presentation was great, with the ingredients of the dish served separately and accompanied by a large terrine of the soup base. B and I both loved this rich, layered soup, that really warmed us up after the walk from the metro.




The main course, served in a piping hot copper pot, was a rich, tomato based pork stew with huge chunks of pork, lardons, black olives, potatoes, onions, carrots, and thyme. It was hearty and the non-traditional inclusion of the olives added depth. The pork tasted as though it had been roasting all day and was fork tender. And, I was thrilled that the vegetables were tender, but not mushy -- a fine balance to strike. As hard as we tried, we could not finish it all.




Next, came our first cheese course of the trip. I must say I love this element of dinner. And as dinners stretch for hours, you really have time to savor and enjoy. This course consisted of apple compote, a creamy camambert, and mixed greens in a balsamic vinaigrette.



Dessert was a chocolate ganache (denser than mousse but with that same intense chocolate flavor) and a caramel foam which was light and almost airless in texture, adding a wonderful depth of flavor to the chocolate.



The kitchen in which all of this is turned out is a tiny galley space with two chefs. The owner who we were fortunate enough to speak to, noted that this is the reason for the set menu. And it is the owner and one other server who ably man the dining room.

The all inclusive tab was about 100 euro; dinner for two in a wine shop was priceless!

Food Field Trip France: L'Ardoise

Tuesday night brought us back to our favorite bistro on our trip to Paris in 2003 - L'Ardoise (http://www.lardoise-paris.com/). Back then we chose this restaurant because it is delicious yet affordable. I had risotto for the first time here -- an incredible rich, creamy shrimp version which opened my eyes to the wonder of this dish and its many variations. So our expectations were high and after spending the morning traipsing around Versailles and early evening hiking up the Arc de Triomph we were both very hungry!

L'Ardoise is a tiny storefront bistro, with about 30 seats packed together in a sparsely decorated space. The prix fix menu is written in French on a large chalkboard which is presented at your table when the waitress determines it is your turn to order. Like most smaller restaurants in Paris there were two efficient and very busy servers handling the entire dining room, which was bursting at the seams with diners.

The amuse bouche was again a wild mushroom soup (popular choice this time of year) and we ordered a Burgundian red this time, but alas I don't have a photo and don't remember the name. It was great though -- lighter and less tannic than a Bordeaux which worked out well for the meal to come.

I started with the escargot served in individual pots and topped with crostinis. The snails were perfectly cooked, but the butter-based sauce had too much parsley and not enough garlic to stand up to the snails, so the earthy flavor overpowered the dish a bit. They were good, but not the traditional Burgundian dish.



B's appetizer was great, so I was glad we were sharing every course. He opted for the wild mushroom and lobster ravioli. The menu here was entirely in French and the Rick Steves' food translator did not help much. As an aside, can someone please write a guide that tells me more than what a baguette or a brasserie means? Anyway, back to the food; the sauce was creamy, the ravioli al dente, and the filling excellent. All the flavors and textures in this dish really came together and it was a great start to the meal.



For my main course, I ordered a special that was not listed on the chalkboard: langoustines (smaller than a lobster but bigger than a crayfish) cooked in parchment paper with butter, thyme, and parsley served over mashed potatoes and what I think was a celery root cake. B and I differ on our views of this dish. I thought it was fragmented with the thyme overpowering the langoustines and the celery root adding zero value in either flavor or texture. B thought it was perfect. I will say that the langoustines were cooked perfectly so that they were not chewy, but tender and quite good.




B ordered the lamb fillet served with potatoes au gratin. We both agreed that this dish was excellent. The lamb was as tender as filet mignon, juicy, and crusted with mint and parsley. The au gratin potatoes were full of flavor, with a cheese crust on top and tender potatoes underneath oozing with a combination of heavy cream and cheese.



For dessert I was thrilled that there was a seasonal option. As I have mentioned before I love figs and this tart was truly out of the park, and was accompanied by passion fruit sorbet. The million layer pastry crust was flaky and buttery and the figs were fresh, beautiful, and so tasty. I fell in love with this dessert. And while I lean toward chocolate in my desserts, this was my favorite dessert of the trip.

r

B actually went with the chocolate. I don't remember what this dish was called, but it was composed of a dark chocolate ganache wedge of goodness topped with the richest chocolate sauce, chocolate sorbet, and dark chocolate bark. This dessert was also incredible. The meal definitely ended on a high note and the hunger pains we had felt earlier in the evening had more than dissipated!

This meal came to 107 euros all inclusive. And I still highly recommend this restaurant -- the cooking attempts to merge the traditional and inventive, and the ingredients are extremely fresh.

Food Field Trip France: Louis Vins

While we did not make reservations for our first night in Paris (owing to the jetlag and knowing full well we would not be able to wait for the traditional reservation time of at least 8pm), we did plan to eat at Cafe Constant (http://www.cafeconstant.com/1.aspx). This review is not about this restaurant, save for this paragraph:

Cafe Constant is one of Christian Constant's restaurants. It opens rather early by European standards (7pm), is relatively cheap, does not take reservations, and got great reviews on Chowhound. We thought this would make the perfect first night place. However, it was, not just bad, but gross. It made a lean cuisine entree look like fine dining. The plat du jour was a chicken dish that tasted as if it had been cooked three weeks ago and heated up for the evening; the texture was as tough as rubber and the overly buttered mashed potatoes did little to mask the issue. Who wants to hear about bad food, right? So I will stop there and note that both the foie gras and rabbit terrine were decent, but take this as public service announcement to anyone considering this option for their trip to Paris: just don't. There are much better quick, cheap places to eat and you don't want to be disappointed your first night in the city.

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Now on to a much more appetizing report. On Monday night, our first reservation of the trip renewed my faith in the Parisian dining establishment: Louis Vins (http://www.fifi.fr/) We chose this restaurant based on Mark Slater's (the Ray's the Steaks sommelier) recommendation and I can't wait to thank him for his advice.

Louis Vins is a 40 seat restaurant, with kitchy French decor, a warm ambiance, and a great wine list! We arrived and while the waitstaff did not speak English they kindly offered us an English language menu. We were the only non-Parisians (or at least non-French speakers) in the restaurant and were surprised, but did not hesitate to take advantage of this cheat sheet.

First, we were treated to an amuse bouche of wild mushroom soup and offered the wine list. We chose what I think was the best wine of our trip (and there were many contenders). A 2005 Bordeaux. For the duration of our trip we stuck with wines in the 35 - 45 euro price point and were never disappointed. One of my other favorite parts of enjoying these wines was lingering over a 2.5 - 3 hour dinner, with the waiter/waitress pouring the wine so it lasts throughout the meal. American waitstaff can often be inclined to over pour to encourage ordering another bottle (thus increasing the tip) and/or hurrying the meal.

Voila -- our wine of the evening -- robust, tannic and perfect for the food that was to come.



The menu included on the prix fix options like nearly all in the city and offered about 8 choices each for entrees (in France the appetizer), plats du jour, and desserts for a bargain price of 28 euros. Again we had the benefit of the English language menu, so I can actually detail what was in every dish.

I started with the pesto encrusted goat cheese over field greens with balsamic vinaigrette. The goat cheese was heavenly. I am a sucker for goat cheese anyway, but this was sweet and layered with flavor owing the pesto crust. The tartness of the field greens added a subtle contrast. B chose the jumbo prawns, wrapped in filo dough and lightly fried. These shrimp were perfectly done, with the most delicate wrapping, making for a nice crunch.



For dinner, I had the Cod with chanterelles over mashed potatoes. The cod fillet was generous in size (about 10 oz) and cooked so that it was both flaky and juicy, and the veritable field of mushrooms that accompanied it rounded out the flavor and made for a meaty, earthy, and cold weather-appropriate fish dish.

B ordered the most decadent main dish of our trip: roasted duck wih foie gras surrounding mashed potatoes, and accompanied by salad greens tossed in a vinaigrette. The duck was roasted and de-boned and the combination of the rich, tender duck, with the smooth rich foie gras was delectable and very filling!

Now for my favorite part of any meal: dessert. I ordered the chocolate terrine with Creme Anglais and the same chocolate crunchies (yes I am sure that is the French word) that Michel Richard uses on many of his desserts at Central. It was so rich, like eating the filling of French truffle, so pretty much perfect. B had the baba au rhum which was a moist single-serving cake topped with one shot if not two shots of the rum and yellow raisins.

The inclusive bill for this meal came to about 100 euros. Even with the exchange rate approaching dismal lows (1.47 Euro to every dollar), this was a great value.

Food Field Trip: France – Unexpected and Much Appreciated Food and Wine Finds

All night flight… morning spent wandering around Paris… and finally, lunch. BUT, we wisely (note the sarcasm) decided to leave our guidebook and itinerary matrix (yes, we actually make up a restaurant 'options' matrix for each day – we do work in DC after all) at the hotel. So while B and I fully intended to revisit La Coupole, a bustling bistro on Paris's Left Bank that we tried out on our first trip to France years ago, we could not find it for anything. And given that my French pronunciation skills border on unintelligible, anyone I asked for directions just kind of looked at me with a blank stare or pointed, and in conflicting directions.

So, after an hour of wandering around Montparnasse, with B and I both asserting time and again that yes, this is the street, and then deciding our heated conversation made us look like that couple who always argues on any season of the Amazing Race, we gave up. At that point, our stomachs were not going to take any more wandering around.

This turned out to be a great decision.* We found a quintessential little café with plenty of heated outdoor tables, and settled in for our first of many glasses of wine with lunch (I love the European way of life) and two perfectly buttery ham and cheese omelets. While, yes, we were hungry, these omelets were simply divine. They were served in just the right amount of butter, which in Paris is about a stick of the cultured stuff, and filled with flavorful European ham (not the wimpy American kind) and rich, gruyere cheese. We also ordered a side of fries which were thin, crispy, and delicious.

So what is the name of this great café? I have no idea. Where are the pictures? Sorry. And now you are probably thinking, why do I read this blog again? I apologize and promise full details including names, pictures, and websites for the rest of the meals we ate in France. As noted earlier, this stop was not planned.

*One nonfood issue that would continue to irk me at all the little cafes in Paris: the bathroom set-up. The urinal is placed in the open (!) between the men and women's toilets. Now, I may be a prudish American, but I never got used to this and always approached the situation with my eyes focused squarely on the floor.

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Liquid Dessert: After lunch, now really full, but fighting to stay awake we headed up to Montmartre. We had read in the NY Times travel blog section of a wine festival happening that weekend. This was a great decision and a wonderful way to spend an afternoon wandering around booths stocked with French wine, cheeses, and pastries, and sipping excellent French champagne for 5 euros a glass.

(No idea what the black cheese, hockey-puck pastry things are but they were very popular)

Too Stuffed to Dish (Yet)

We are back from France and while I promise I will supply all the juicy details of fabulous meals in Paris, Burgundy, and Lyon, I cannot even think about food right now (seriously). By our last meal Saturday night in Lyon both of us had overdosed on delicious dinners filled with all sorts of animal parts, rich sauces, and creamy cheeses, stretching for hours; our stomachs couldn't handle it anymore. We literally had to battle through our chocolate mousse on our final night– I know, I know, tough life.

Note the fat cherub below – that is how I felt for most of the trip (fat , happy, full of wine) minus the holy part.



Restaurant reviews and lots of mouth watering pictures to come later this week. But for now it is safe to say you will not find me at any of the DC French offerings anytime soon (or for at least a week : )).

One More Before Au Revoir

In preparation for our France adventure and in especially good spirits after a week of chaos at work we were both on vacation, we decided on a distinctly non-Parisian fare before our trip-- Mexican.

About three years ago we discovered Guajillo (http://www.guajillogrill.com/ pronounced Wa Hee Oh). It is a great little Mexican place in the adjacent space to the new Ray's Hellburger. The walls are two-tone tangerine orange with a soaring ceiling painted the color of the sky complete with puffy clouds. The food is a combination of Mexican and Tex-Mex and they make an excellent house margarita. And one more quirky touch, all servers are men, and all appear to be gay. Weird -- especially odd for a restaurant filled with white Arlington yuppies; but it works.

On Fridays, Guajillo serves an excellent spicy, white cheese dip in addition to their fire-roasted salsa. I admittedly fill up on this every time and end up with a lot of leftovers, but it is worth it.

Tonight B had the steak fajitas, which were served over a bed of charred green onions. The steak was tender and cooked medium. I had one of my old stand-bys: the queso fundido (the other being the shrimp and goat cheese enchiladas) with chorizo. The queso fundido is an excellent mix of chorizo, cheese of course, mushrooms, onion, peppers, and fresh pico de gallo. Both dishes were served with homemade corn tortillas (And owing to the aforementioned cheese dip I have lunch tomorrow).

As usual, to cap off the meal, we ordered the sopapillas with ice cream. The vanilla ice cream with raspberry sauce was gooey and delicious as usual, but the fry cook butchered the sopas, which were charred shells of what is usually fluffy goodness.

Alas, not a bad meal to leave the country on. Dinner for two with a margarita for me and El Sol for B, with tax and tip was $62.

Paris Preview

We leave for Paris this Saturday (and then head onto Burgundy and Lyon) so this blog will be on hiatus during a week filled with wine, fois gras, escargot, cassoulet, among other delights. I am very excited!

Last Saturday we were treated to a delicious preview of what is no doubt in store by our foodie friends who are also the best cooks and most gracious hosts. They wowed us with an onion, olive, caper, and anchovy tart, french onion soup oozing with gruyere, pork loin with green peppercorn sauce, and a beautiful plum tart. I was too busy eating, drinking, and talking to take pictures (sorry!), but needless to say it definitely made me very excited for that type of rich, earthy food!

One day to go. I promise a full food field trip report when I get back!

Friday Fall Feast - Pumpkin Beer and Roquefort Stuffed Pork Chops

This past Friday night was perfect for a fall meal -- a slight chill was in the air, the leaves are just starting to turn from bright green to muted yellows, and Dogfish Pumpkin Head Ale was on sale at Wholefoods. Plus B was off on Friday, which always makes me happy as that means a great dinner will most certainly be in my future.

We started out with cocktails on our patio (bundled up in fleece jackets) and really enjoyed the Dogfish Head Pumpkin Beer. It has a well-balanced, full bodied flavor with just the right hints of pumpkin and spice. At 7% alcohol and $2.50 a bottle retail it is both more alcoholic and expensive than most pumpkin beers, but well worth it. B is a bit of a beer purist (no flavors) and he loved this one, noting that it did not taste artificial at all.

B had a great dinner in store. Boston Bib lettuce with a quick balsamic vinaigrette dressing and Parmesan shavings to start followed by rosemary (yes, we used our herb garden again) and roquefort stuffed pork chops, complimented with sour cream and chive mashed potatoes (for which our Kitchen Aid mixer is a Godsend).

The recipe, available at http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Roquefort-Stuffed-Pork-Chops-5668, is described as "an easy autumn recipe great for special occasions." B had made this dish once before last winter and I had loved it and still do. The key is to get a good thick cut (1 inch) bone-in pork chop. You make the filling (a combination of rosemary, homemade bread cubes, onions, shallots, rosemary) ahead of time and chill for at least fifteen minutes (allowing time to enjoy the aforementioned beer). Then you stuff the pork chops, pan sear them in butter for two minutes a side and throw in a 350 degree oven for 25 minutes.

And voila...a hearty, delicious fall meal. I highly recommend it for easy entertaining or even a special weeknight in.

The end of balcony basil, the beginning of two great Pesto feasts

While we moved into our Arlington condo last fall, this was our first season as balcony gardeners. We started slowly with a mini herb garden of basil, rosemary, and parsley, and were delighted with a bumper crop of basil. (Note this basil needed water and pruning just about every other day -- so not low maintenance, but excellent to have on hand all summer)

As we slipped from summer into fall this past week we noticed that our basil plants would soon suffer from the cold and wanted to take advantage of their bounty.

So we turned to one of our favorite cookbook authors -- Ina Garten (aka the Barefoot Contessa). Her pesto recipe (http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/ina-garten/pesto-recipe/index.html) is delicious, calls for 5 packed cups of basil (yes this is a lot, but worth it) and the addition of walnuts to round out the flavor. And voila, 8 ingredients processed with the help of a Cuisinart food processer and the sacrifice of our basil, the perfect pesto is complete (and you will see below, our basil is finished).

The two plants yielded two batches, so while we enjoyed one right away, we will get to fondly remember our basil later this fall when we take the other batch out of the freezer. I recommend linguini (whole wheat or regular works fine) and some freshly grated Parmesan to round out the dish.

B & I completed our meal the right way with a fall fruit tart from Quail Creek Farms (http://www.quailcreekfarm.com/ and while your at this website scroll to the bottom and check out their holiday items for pre-order - yum!), that we picked up at the Arlington Farmer's market that morning.




Their tarts, while a bit pricey at $5.25 per slice, our splendid -- creamy custard, flavorful crust and really fresh fruit including my favorite fall fruit -- figs (which always make me want to be back in Sonoma this time of year when figs are sold on the honor system on the side of the road... but I digress).

Z Pizza -- More than your money's worth!

So yes, I have lived here for over four years now, and have not ordered a pizza for three and a half. Anyone familiar with DC knows Italian American food is not its strong suit. And while the Italian store has excellent pizzas, they don't deliver. So I had all but given up on pizza delivery due to the cardboard flavor, soggy crusts, and cheap tasteless cheese.

But then time got away from B & I one night and we needed a quick dinner delivered, because we were admittedly being lazy. Friends had suggested Z Pizza (http://www.zpizza.com/), a CA based chain, and we decided to try one more time to find a decent pizza.

I was immediately intrigued by the ease of ordering online and the option of a whole wheat crust -- not bad. It being a California-based pizza chain (with no pretense of authenticity), we opted for the American -- Organic tomato sauce, mozzarella, pepperoni, sausage, tomatoes, mushrooms, bell peppers, red onions. We ordered online and were told about an hour.

A half hour later there is a knock a the door and the most attractive pizza man I have ever seen is standing there with our pizza. I got a bit flustered and had to have B sign the order slip. It was such a surreal experience, attractive, model-like tall, dark, and handsome white guy -- seriously when does that happen?! The breathy tone in which he emoted for us to "please, do enjoy your pizza" made me feel like I was in the type of movie that isn't shown at AMC ; ). Don't worry; this is a PG blog-- the story ends here.

The pizza itself was good -- not great, but definitely worth the $22 including delivery and tip. The crust had a good texture, crisp yet chewy and the toppings were plentiful. I would definitely order again and cross my fingers for the same pizza delivery man.

Food Field Trip NYC Part 3: The Brunch Bunch - New Leaf and Bubby's

As of late, B & I have been in a real brunch rut in DC. We either end up at Clyde's in Georgetown which is reliable if unremarkable, or at some of the newer offerings around town, such as Eventide, which has made us wonder if people have forgotten or simply don't care about the difference between a poached and hard boiled egg! Needless to say we needed a good brunch and we had the pleasure of two in NYC.

On Saturday, we headed for the Cloisters (http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_of_Art/the_cloisters), which is an outpost of the Met. It was a gorgeous Saturday and the last time we were in NYC the concierge at our hotel mentioned that if we ever made it up there to check out the New Leaf Cafe, part of Bette Midler's New York Restoration Project (http://www.nyrp.org/newleaf/).

The space is beautiful and appears to be a converted old stone building/barn. The day we were there they were preparing for a wedding so the last seating for brunch was at 1:45pm. We got in under the wire and just in time as the place quickly filled to capacity. Inside, the space is rustic, with dark distressed wood and waiters bustling in a room full of people, yet not cramped with tables.

The brunch entrees are were all priced at $18.95, which was inclusive coffee or tea and juice. B chose the duck confit, which was served in an individual cast iron skillet and topped with what else but bona fide poached eggs and accompanied by a creamy pot of grits. The food was rustic and earthy and the eggs tied the whole dish together.

I opted for the homemade parpadelle bolognese. The papardelle were studded with thyme and topped with smoked mozzarella. The flavor was also rustic, but this dish was obviously a bit more substantial and meaty given the bolognese.

We both left happy and full.

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The next day, Sunday (i.e. the day all in New York flock to brunch) we met friends in Tribeca at Bubby's (http://bubbys.com/). The ambiance was casual and homey -- perfect for six friends and a toddler to catch up. The food was fantastic and pricey and the service was, well, awful.

But, back to the food. B opted for the sourdough pancakes, which brought the art of the pancake to a whole new level and should have given the $17 price tag. The sourdough pancakes were topped with bananas and strawberries, and came three to an order. They were great and a bit hard to describe -- fluffy, dense, and rich all at the same time.

I had the chanterelle and shallot scramble -- fluffy eggs with huge chanterelle mushrooms , accompanied by a cross between charred breakfast potatoes and hash browns (excellent) and toast (which I was too full to even touch).

Brunch for two with coffee and tea, tax and tip was $52. Not cheap and cash only. The service was garbage. B had a coffee cup full of coffee grinds and it took all six of us--and fifteen minutes--to flag down a waiter, but I would still recommend Bubby's in spite of the price and service because the food was fantastic and the atmosphere pretty cool -- a homey brunch on steroids.

Food Field Trip NYC Part 2: The Joys of Camping

Anyone who knows me knows I hate camping. But this past weekend in NYC, I discovered a type of camp that I genuinely enjoy and cannot wait to go back to: Mary's Fish Camp (http://www.marysfishcamp.com/marysette.html), a small 30 seat urban "fish shack."

Mary's is situated in the heart of East Greenwich Village, occupying a tiny corner of real estate composed of a nine seat bar (designed for eating) and tables that line the wall. They do not accept reservations so B & I expected a wait.

What we did not expect was to be greated so amicably by the host who noted the wait was only a half hour; he suggested that we choose our wine and enjoy a glass on the sidwalk while we waited. The weather was fantastic as was the people watching so we happily obliged. We chose a white Rioja. While we really enjoy this red varietal, we had never tried the white version. It did not dissapoint and may have been the antithesis of its red counterpart -- crisp, light bodied, and slightly tart. Perfect for an unseasonably warm autumn night and the seafood that was to come.

About twenty minutes later and already in a great mood, B & I were seated at the bar. In spite of its small size, the space is laid out in such a way where you don't feel cramped. The service follows suit; our waitress (and also I think owner) carefully went over all the evenings specials with such a genuine enthusiasm that B & I had a really hard time deciding.

After debating the merits of about 12 appetizers, we went with the Jonah crab claws, in part because of the ease of eating this particular preperation -- eating crab can prove overly cumbersome for such a little bit of meat.

These claws were shelled to the tip, battered, and served up with a lemon aioli. The meat was tender and flaky and the aioli added a fantastic tang to the dish. Each claw contained about two bites of deliciousness (and yes I know this is not a real word.)

Before arriving knew I was going to order the lobster roll as my entree. There is nothing I like more than a lobster roll (maybe it is my New England roots), but ever since having the hot buttered lobster roll at Neptune Oyster (http://www.neptuneoyster.com/) in the North End of Boston, the bar has been set so high that I ussually have to temper expectations... no need in this case.

(picture does a better job showing off the fries verse the lobster)

The roll arrived and had hunks of tail and claw meat, overflowing the brioche bun, accented with the perfect amount of mayonnaise and just a dusting of chives. And the lobster was flavoral and cooked perfectly -- not chewy or overdone as is often the case in your run of the mill lobster roll and no shell fragments! The shoestring fries that accompanied it were also quite good.

For B the entree decision was a bit tougher; he really had no idea and was overwhelmed by the ten or so fantastic sounding options; then we saw what the bouillabaisse looked like and his mind was instantly made up.

This was a classic Mediterranean bouillabaisse with a saffron infused broth and plenty of the ocean's bounty: lobster tail, mussels, calimari, white fish etc. B liked it so much that he picked up his bowl at the end of the meal to savor the remaining broth -- this type of behavior seemed to be encouraged!


I should also add that the music is just fun -- think Beyonce Bootylicious -- and at a volume that still allows for conversation.

Since we were headed out for drinks later we did not get dessert, but the old fashioned ice cream Sunday looked delightful.

Dinner for two, with a shared appetizer, bottle of wine, and two entrees, tax, and tip was $135; the fish drawing the accompoanied the check was gratis. And the experience was a blast!

Food Field Trip -- NYC Weekend Part 1: From Cupcakes to Tea

B & I spent a wonderful long weekend in NYC catching up with old friends and enjoying the city's wonderful culinary offerings. In this post and the next two, I will relive the experience, providing what I think are witty musings on the highlights and lowlights of our culinary adventure.

Odds and Ends -- From Cupcakes to Tea

Like usual, B & I made our first stop at the original Magnolia Bakery (http://www.magnoliacupcakes.com/) on Bleecker St. Their cupcakes are definitely good but not great; Baked and Wired in DC offers a far superior cupcake. So why do we always go? 1) The frosting is wonderful -- an old fashioned butter cream and lots of it. 2) The shop itself is adorable and the aromas inside are such a treat in and of themselves. The total for two cupcakes and a lemonade was 7.50, but the sugar rush was priceless, and the frosting did not disappoint. I highly recommend it if you are in NYC. Plus the window shopping on and around Bleecker is a good time.

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Finding a good martini in DC is no easy task. So when we head to NYC it is a must. This time we tried out the Campbell Apartment in Grand Central Station. The atmosphere is something out of Mad Men with marble walls, a wooden roof, soaring ceilings, fringed lamp shades, and plush banquets. The service was a bit off as our waitress forgot our order and had to circle back to reconfirm, but it was worth the wait. The martinis were terrific and poured tableside. B enjoyed his usual -- gin martini up with olives, as did I - classic cosmopolitan (cliche, wholly unoriginal, and delicious!) Two martinis with tax and tip - $32.

http://newyork.citysearch.com/profile/11351464/new_york_ny/the_campbell_apartment.html

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B & I also found a new, hidden gem -- McNulty's (http://www.mcnultys.com/) Actually, it is not so new (been around since 1895) and is hidden in plain site in between the colorful shops on Christopher Street, but it was nonetheless a great find for us. I am not a coffee drinker, but I love tea and had been in search of a decaffeinated blend for weeknight evenings. Let me just say that it was a tough choice, but I settled on a chocolate mint blend which smells heavenly and should be a great end to any day that will feel indulgent but without the calories. I am looking forward to trying it this week. A quarter pound of tea (enough for 20 - 25 cups) was $5.25.

It's Harvest Time

And that means the Farmer's Market is a feast for the stomach as well as for the eyes! My favorite moment of each week is wandering around the Arlington Farmers Market on Saturday. (I may or may not have chosen a condo based on its proximity to this market ; )). It is such a calming, communal experience and makes me wish grocery shopping could always be like this; while it is a year round market, from April - October is by far the best time of year. Just five days until the next one.

Yum -- below are just a few pictures of last Saturday's offerings.

Is that Ray?

(Photo Courtesy of Northern Virginia Magazine)

Ray's the Steaks -- (no website, but all information is available here: http://www.washingtonpost.com/gog/restaurants/rays-the-steaks,1071592.html)

Last night B stopped off on his way home from work to snag us a 7pm reservation at Ray's the Steaks. Review to follow, but first a bit of background on my history with Ray's.

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As I noted in an earlier post, Ray's in one of our go-to restaurants; we probably eat there about once a month and love to bring out of town guests and steak lovers alike. When we first moved to the area about four years ago, Ray's the Steaks was still in its old location, and Michael Landrum, the eccentric yet brilliant owner was threatening to close the restaurant because he refused to serve, in short, "a**holes" (his word, not mine). Our first time dining was a week before the supposed closing. (Thankfully, this did not happen and Ray's now has a new expanded location even closer to our condo)

On our first visit Michael was there and we got to talk to him for a while, learning that the concept of Ray's came from the Daily Catch (great seafood place in the North End of Boston, where the food is served right in the pan and wine comes in dixie cups). At Ray's the core idea is to serve up top-quality steak that is affordable, and the location no-frills. We were hooked after talking to Michael in 2005, and tasting cuts of meat that are truly out of this world. And I have a soft spot in my heart for this place because when we first moved down here, I really missed Boston and not only was Ray's based on the concept of a Boston mainstay, but it was the first truly great meal B & I enjoyed in the DC area.

Now, while things have changed since that first visit (reservations are now accepted, the menu has expanded slightly, Michael managed to add Mark Slater ,the former Citronelle sommelier, and the clientele as shifted in some ways for the worst -- more on that later), it is still a fantastic restaurant.

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Okay, back to last night. So we were seated in the "fancier" of the two dining rooms. By fancier (and anyone familiar with the restaurant knows this), I mean it is carpeted, and has leather chairs and mirrors on the wall.

Upon being seated the usual spicy cashews arrived and we asked to speak to Mark about what wine to order. Mark is a delight. I love talking to this man about wine. His storied career working with Michel Richard makes for some great stories and he really knows his wine and can select a great wine for you at any price. Last night, B & I asked for a Burgundy selection since we are headed there (so excited) in about a month. Mark regaled us with stories of his last visit, selected a fantastic 2001 vintage, and returned with restaurant recommendations for the Paris portion of our trip. The wine, in the words of B, was exquisite. B & I normally go for a bolder Zinfandel, a CA Cabernet, or most recently a Spanish Rioja with our steak, but this wine was a bit more complex and really complemented the meal.

As for the food, last night was unseasonably chilly for early September, which made it a perfect night so start with the soups. I had the Clam Chowder, a New England style cream chowder with corn, carrots, celery, bacon, and of course clams, that was very good (especially after a few shakes of pepper). B had the sherried crab bisque which was really on last night -- silky texture, sweet flavor, and delicious hunks of crab.

B & I are definitely in a bit of a rut (in a good way) when it comes to our steaks at Ray's. I always get the filet, cut butterflied and cooked medium well (steak fans start turning up your noses, but at Ray's medium-well is medium) and B gets the NY strip medium rare. We also generally add a sauce, usually the brandy mushroom cream. The steaks at Ray's are the same cuts, if not better, that you would find in any fine steakhouse (Mortons, Capital Grill). Last night was no exception. And unlike a traditional steakhouse, sides of a garlicky creamed spinach and mashed potatoes are included in the $30-35 price. B did better than me and finished his steak, but now I get to enjoy leftovers later this weekend!

And dessert -- ah dessert. At Ray's I think I like the dessert as much as the steak. For me there is no question, its the dark chocolate mousse which is just wonderful. It is almost like eating the inside of a chocolate truffle -- in terms of both consistency and flavor. And be forewarned, they do run out often, so if you have your heart set on this dessert consider ordering early. B and I will sometimes split the mousse, but he got the coconut creme pie last night, which actually posed a formidable challenge to the mouse. A rich coconut custard on a thick graham cracker crust. And if these two treats were not enough the usual tiger butter fudge accompanied the check.

I really love this restaurant. Last night's tab for two soups, a fillet, NY strip, mousse, pie, and the Burgundy wine ($65, well above our normal wine ceiling) and tax and tip was $180. Its usually closer to $150 but we splurged on the wine.

Now I would be remiss if I did not revisit my comment on clientele. Of course it is still filled with yuppies, but the mix has changed quite markedly since the restaurant started taking reservations.

After talking to Mark about the wine, the older, loud lady next to me leaned over and yelled, "Is that Ray?!" (Please note the restaurant's name is a pun -- as in 'raise' the stakes). This was clearly lost on her, and when I said no--it was the sommelier--she yelled even louder, "the WHAT?!" So I dutifully translated "wine guy," and explained how there is in fact no Ray, but that a man by the name is Michael Landrum is the owner. I'm not sure she fully understood that "Ray" does not exist, but if she did, she was probably a bit disappointed.

And then as this woman's party was leaving another eclectic party arrived. They ordered the scallops as an appetizer and then asked the waiter what exactly a "scallop" was--meaning (I guess?): is it a fish, clam, part of an animal?! He then posited that everyone eats them but no one knows in fact what they are. Enough said.

Then the woman on the other side lamented how she does not drink red wine, but was willing to try if they had anything that was "sweet." The waitress looked perplexed and did her best to try to explain that they did not have red wine that was all that sweet, but to no avail.

Needless to say -- it was entertaining, we left, full and amused.

It's the Little Things

After a particularly frenetic day, starting before dawn with an early client meeting, I finally found time to grab lunch. Potbelly's, a chain sandwich shop founded in Chicago (http://www.potbelly.com/Food/FoodStory.aspx), is oftentimes my go-to for a quick sandwich or salad. Their food is consistent if unremarkable and the service is quick and polite.

But what really sets them apart is the Sheila's Dream bar. This delightful treat starts with a blonde brownie-like base mixed with oats, caramel, chocolate chips. And while I don't normally eat dessert with lunch, my salad wasn't cutting it today and I decided to indulge. The bar is soft, yet chewy, and stands out from your average brownie due to the texture of the oats. It really is a tasty snack and for $1.39 the extra calories are virtually free : ).

The Perfect End of Summer Meal

While I can't say that I am sad to see the heat and humidity of summer finally leave DC behind, I am going to miss access to such great local ingredients. In a Labor Day send off to summer, I pulled out one of my favorite cookbooks of the season -- while actually, its more of a magazine -- America's Test Kitchen, put out a Cooking for Two 2009 glossy which is great for when its just B and me!

One of my favorite recipes is the summer vegetable gratin -- showcasing zucchini, summer squash, onion, and heirloom tomatoes all heightened by an addition of Parmesan cheese. It was a great way to enjoy a 100% farmer's market side dish (with the exception of the Parmesan, cheese).

To accompany the gratin, I made the recipe for the shrimp and scallop risotto. This recipe is great and kicks up the risotto flavor by the additions of clam juice to the traditional chicken broth, as well as saffron (just a pinch), tomatoes, and basil. Plus risotto in general is one of my favorite dishes in any season since it can showcase virtually any ingredient (snap pea and asparagus in the spring, mushroom in the fall etc.).

These dishes, coupled with a mixed greens salad with B's vinaigrette and a Pouilly-Fuissé (a crisp, solid white wine from the Burgundy region of France) made for the perfect end to a long weekend that of course felt too short.
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Full Disclosure: I actually learned how to make risotto from a Rachel Ray cookbook and get this, from a recipe she used to make for her dog! But seriously, her directions were easy to follow and I consider myself a bit of a risotto master now, so I highly recommend her recipe for Boo-sotto if you are apprehensive about learning the art (read: stirring) of risotto.

Central by way of Sei

After much deliberation of whether to stay in DC or head to Boston for the Labor Day weekend, B & I decided to stay in DC owing to both the weather (mid-80s, low humidity) and finances (we are re-doing our bedroom and headed to Paris in October, so the airfare and hotel expenses did not seem very appealing!).

So, we are here this weekend and decided to make the most of it. Starting with jazz and sangria in the national Sculpture Garden -- one of my favorite ways to spend a Friday afternoon (as long as it is not one those 9o degree 90 percent humidity days, and per the first paragraph, it wasn't).

Following jazz, we had a reservation at Sei. While I am not a huge fan of Restaurant Week, Sei had extended its $35 three course special through September, and owing to a good review in the Post, I figured it was worth a shot. The menu online looked promising, and the restaurant itself was very appealing. I loved the fact that the restroooms were "hers" and "hers and his" -- very practical! But after upon sitting down, things quickly went downhill. Upon perusing the menu, I noticed that there was only one Restaurant Week combination that would equate to over $35 if ordered a la carte and the vast majority of combinations were about $5-7 less than that amount. I am not sure why, but this really bothered me. I felt like Sei was pulling one over on all its diners. That coupled with the absurd wine places, caused B and I to look at each and say the same thing: Central?

So we got up and left. I do not remember the last time when I left a restaurant before ordering and I am slightly concerned about my open table status, but I was really bothered by their extended "deal" which turned out to be an extended "scam."

As it is Labor Day in DC, we were able to walk into Central at 7:45pm without a reservation; this will change come Tuesday, but has been nice all summer to not have to plan ahead to eat there. And in the interest of full disclosure, Central is one of my top three go-to restaurants in DC (the others being Ray's the Steaks and Tosca), and earlier in the evening B was lamenting that we were not going there...

With all that said, Central did not disappoint. We sat down, had great service by the jolly waiter that looks and sounds like a young Michel Richard and ordered a French Gamay. I never had a Gamay wine before and don't think I will again. The waiter noted that this is the grape used in Beajoulais and is young and does not breathe. He was right. It tasted oddly like the Sangria we had just had in the Sculpture Garden and just seemed weak. The waiter did have us taste a sparkling Gamay which is currently used to top off their blueberry cocktail, which is a real treat (though I did not have that on this visit). B did seem to enjoy the wine though. It was drinkable, just unremarkable.

Then on to the eating. Of course we had their amazing crusty bread which B cannot get enough of (they get their bread from Panorama, an Alexandria-based wholesaler) and shared our usual starter -- the goat cheese Caesar salad. This cheesy, crispy delight is romaine lettuce encricling goat cheese, and topped with caesar dressing, parmesan, diced tomatoes and a paper thin crostini. It is delicious and they usually split it for us which is great so I don't have to compete with B for my share. He really likes it too.

For entrees, we had two that we had eaten before but were as a good as ever. I got the lamb shank over creamy polenta which delivered a succulent, juicy, rich taste with a hint of rosemary. B got the fried chicken. This is the only place where I would describe the fired chicken as lighter than air. It is breaded with just the insides of the French bread and comes with both a breast and dark meet piece. It also has mashed potatoes, gravy, and green salad. Central does not list the sides that accompany each dish on the menu, so if you are eating there for the first time ask so you don't say order a green salad to start and then find the same dish on your plate. And despite it being a carb overload we asked for another round of bread.

To end the meal, we tried the banana split. The waiter recommended it and it was wonderful (and not at all necessary after the entrees that preceded it, but very much enjoyed). It is served on what looks like a TV tray with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, strawberry sorbet, and a mousse like chocolate ice cream with a banana covered in whip cream and book-ended by chocolate and caramel sauces. I loved that it was deconstructed and allowed the eater (mainly me) to construct all sorts of different flavor combinations. And something I have learned of late: I actually like sorbet. I used to prefer ice cream to icey, watery, sugary sweet sorbet, but Central and Bocato Gelato's sorbet have made me reconsider.

It was a great Friday night and toast to the end of summer in DC. With tax and 20% gratuity the meal--consisting of a bottle of the Gamay, a shared appetizer, entrees, and dessert--was $137.50.

Postscript: I went for a long run this morning which made me feel a bit better about sharing a dessert with B that the table behind us split among 8 people!

Great Neighborhood Pub (just not my neighborhood)

Last night B and I headed to Stoney's in Logan Circle. In spite of the fact that Stoney's is probably the only place on P street without a happy hour (and I love a good happy hour), it has such a great atmosphere (casual, plenty of seating, good background music ranging from 70's funk to reggae) and above all else: awesome, varied beers on tap, and a bartender that knows how to pour them correctly.

Right now Stoney's has Kona's Firerock Pale Ale, a hoppy beer which B & I enjoyed last spring while on the Big Island of Hawaii. The taste brings me back to sipping the same beer while watching the sunset over the Pacific (which is a great way to forget the stresses of work!). Plus, they also had Harpoon UFO on tap. As a former Boston resident and big fan of Harpoon, I love this beer, especially on tap with a lemon -- it tastes like summer to me -- and this is very hard to find in DC. Pints are about $6 each.

Another one bites the dust...

I was very excited that Arlington (the Ballston-Rosslyn corridor) was finally going to get a non-chain bakery. Bayou, a New Orleans-themed bakery, was supposed to take over the old Murky Coffee space on Wilson Blvd.

But alas, On Tap reports in its No Longer column, that this project is in fact no longer. Conceived as a joint venture by the people behind Liberty Tavern , the idea as I understood it from press releases was a New Orleans style bakery complete with king cakes and beignets (Yum -- New Orleans is calling).

So -- if anyone is a baker with a penchant for business. Arlington needs you! (Unless you count the Corner Bakery and Le Pain Quotidien as adequate bake shops)

Eating Around -- The Beginning

I am a 3o year old consultant by day (yes, I know, not atypical at all in DC), and an avid foodie by night. My husband (also tied to DC's major industry and for the purposes of this blog will be referred to as B) and I like nothing more than enjoying great eating and drinking experiences, whether it be a fantastic happy hour a tasting experience at a fine restaurant or creating a new dish from farmer's market fare. In short, we love to eat and drink (and travel).

While I like what I do by day (well let me honest, most days), I do not live to work. I work to be able to experience great eating and drinking experiences here in DC and around the world.

I am starting this blog because I want to share my experiences with anyone else who shares this passion or who just wants to decide if a given restaurant/bar/happy hour/food event is worth it. I will also be sure to include prices as I know this detail is key and it really irks me that Tom Sietsema, Washington Post food critic, leaves this information out of his reviews. $50 good is a lot different than $300 good. And while far from a critic, I appreciate good service, value creativity and good ingredients, and promise candid accounts of my dining experiences. Plus it always makes me smile to remember a good meal and will remind me not to go back should the experience prove the other way.

So having been excited about delving into the world of amateur food critic for a while, here it goes:

Dr. Granville Moore's http://www.granvillemoores.com/Beer.html

This past Friday, B & I headed to Granville Moore's on H Street. I must admit that Granville's had been a spot that I had wanted to try for a while, but H street is a haul from my condo and not easily accessible via the metro. But the Food Network re-aired the Bobby Flay Throwdown at Granville's and I could not resist the urge to try mussels with bleu cheese and pork fat!

So after a long week of work, B & I jumped in a cab and got to Granville's by 6:15pm. Actually, we first waited for the H Street Shuttle at Gallery Place but it failed to show up, and then decided to get a martini at Clyde's. YES This is entirely too early for dinner, but the place is tiny and we were glad we heeded advice to show up early as no less than ten minutes after we were seated the place was at an hour wait. (Since there is no room to wait for a table, diners are sent next door to the Pug and called on their cell phone when a table opens up.)

First impressions -- The space is cozy, and brown, and feels like somewhere a gnome would take up residence (in a good way). A bar lines one side of the galley-like space and tables that seat up to four line the other, with two large booths up back and a smaller version of the space replicated upstairs.

There are four beers on tap -- I had the Dravik and B got the other Belgium on tap (can't remember the name -- $10 for his, $5.50 for mine.) While not nearly the selection of a place like Belga Cafe on Capitol Hill, both were great (especially at the end of a long week) and served in the proper glasses. I should also note that there hundreds by the bottle, but I am definitely more of a draft beer person, so I did not even look at that list.

We started with the antipasto--totally gratuitous given the food to come, but it was quite decent with some cured meats, an earthy cheese, and some pickled vegetables.

Of course we got the mussels with bacon and bleu cheese. They did not disappoint; they were cooked perfectly with no hint of the taste of stale ocean that tends to plague the bivalves, and the blue cheese and pork combined to add texture and a really rich flavor. We also got a small (read: huge) side order of fries to share with the horse radish and chipotle raspberry dipping sauce. The fries were great -- crispy with sea salt and herbs. On the sauce front, there were about 8 choices and I would have never picked the raspberry sauce (the raspberry sounded like an odd ingredient), but the waitress recommended it, and it was fantastic -- just a hint of the fruit which was heavily countered by a heavy dose of the chipotle. Somewhere during all this we of course got another round of beers too.

It really was worth the hike up there. The atmosphere was unique (one of those small intimate spaces that DC tends to lack in favor of huge dining rooms) and the food and beer were a great compliment to one another. Dinner for two with two rounds of drinks, antipasto, two orders of mussles, and shared order of fries, tax and 20% tip was $95.