Tuesday, November 16, 2010

J&G Fishhouse (?)

Eating Around DC is back from the west coast and has a back(b)log of DC food experiences to share.  First up: J and G Steakhouse.  After a hectic week, B and I chose J and G not for the obvious, but for the fish options.  As any DC'ite can attest, it seems we have more steakhouses per capita than we have Starbucks outlets!  And B and I are steaked out

Having loved our experience at Jean Georges' Kauai Grill last spring, and given the rave J and G reviews, our expectations were high.  But the modern, club vibe (house music pumps throughout the lobby bar) of the W DC upon walking in gave us abit of leeriness about the relaxation factor, if not the crowds.

I am happy to report that our fears were assuaged and expectations exceeded.  The whole J and G experience is one that I hope to repeat.  The ambiance was modern but unfussy; soaring windows and larger-than life suede banquet seats.  Both our server and the sommelier were attentive, friendly and exceedingly knowledgeable.  The pacing was spot-on, allowing time for us to savor each dish.  And every element from the cocktails through to the dessert was thoughtfully prepared, inventive, and full of flavor.

J and G Steakhouse: Grapefruit Gimlit
Made from grapefruit vodka produced in small batches in Napa Valley (wish I knew about this a few weeks earlier), this was a tart, refreshing apertif.

J and G Steakhouse: Calamari with Yuzu Dip
The calamari appetizer was fried so delicately that it almost melted in your mouth.  The CO2-infused dipping sauce added to the levity with its airy texture and citrus notes.

J and G Steakhouse: Seared Atlantic Cod Scallion-Chili Sauce
I challenge any steak to stand up to the rich flavor of this cod fillet, which was meaty without the meat and enhanced with a wonderfully pungent spicy sauce.

J and G Steakhouse: Glazed Short Ribs with Crunchy Cheddar Grits
And for the record, we did not completely forsake meat. The short ribs were oh-so fork tender. The playful package of phyllo-wrapped grits was not only creative, but the crunch yielded to both sweet and savory goodness. 

Our evening also included bacon-wrapped shrimp and the ubiquitous half-baked chocolate cake.  Both of which were spot-on flavor-wise, if a bit less inventive.

J and G is another one of those places that is not inexpensive, but it is not unreasonable and delivers a wonderful experience from start to finish.  On this particular trip we brought our own wine, but the sommelier had us sample a fabulous Napa Cabernet, Faust, that we hope perhaps to enjoy a full bottle of next visit.  Dinner with two cocktails, two appetizers, two entrees, dessert, corkage ($25), tax, and tip was $200.

J&G Steakhouse on Urbanspoon

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Food Field Trip Carmel: La Bicyclette

The French Village -inspired Dining Room at La  Bicyclette
As a planner's planner, it is rare for me not to have all my restaurant reservations--if not a list of options--lined up weeks if not months in advance of our travels.  But this past trip, we found ourselves in Carmel-by-the-Sea at lunchtime as we drove down the coast, with (gasp) not only no reservations, but no idea whatsoever of where to eat.  Thanks to smartphones, we were able to access a few Chowhound recommendations, and went in search of the much chattered about Casanova.  But after a few wrong turns, we stumbled upon a charming storefront cafe, Le Bicyclette.

Given that we were on the earlier side of lunch, the cafe was still empty, so we originally dismissed the option.  Serendipitously, we did ask the hostess of La Bicyclette if she knew the best way to get to Casanova whereupon she informed us (and as luck would have it), that this was their sister restaurant. So we stayed put.

Before I delve into the details of this find, I want to note that our dining state of mind at this point in the trip can best be described as leery.  The night before, we had reservations at the much hyped casual no-frills Monterey Fish House.  This meal was horrendous in every way, but the kicker was that all of the fish we asked about were from places far, far from Monterey, ranging from New England, to Indonesia to Washington; perhaps the name should have been Everywhere in the World but Monterey Fish House.  The food not only lacked care, flavor, and quality, but also resulted in a minor case of food poisoning for B, who since has refused to give a favorite dish prior to this experience (sea scallops) another try.  But I digress.

So long story short, we decided to give La Bicyclette a try, and were pleased; our good food Karma had returned, our leeriness vanished. The setting was adorned with French country kitsch in a way that was actually warm and charming.  And the incredibly knowledgeable, friendly, and busy hostess-waitress was delightful and efficient, even as the dining room quickly reached capacity a mere thirty minutes after we sat down.

Given the experience the night before, we did not imbibe (but we rarely do at lunch).  I did notice that the wines by the glass listed on the chalkboard provided all local (and thus tilted heavily towards white or pinot) options. The local, seasonal ingredients, presented in French country style, were pleasing to the eyes and proved oh-so delicious.

La Bicyclette: A Steaming Pot of Sunchoke and Bacon Soup
The soup was served in a copper pot, similar to a homestyle meal we had last fall at Les Papilles in Paris, so right away we were smitten.  This cream-based soup showcased the seasonal vegetable of the trip that seemed to crop up at nearly every meal (the sunchoke), whose earthy flavor was complimented by the smokey bacon.

La Bicyclette: Root Vegetable Gnocchi
One of my favorite things about French cooking is that when done well, the intense flavors mean that you do not need to consume large quantities to be fully satisfied.  Case in point was this celery root, sweet potato, and beet gnocchi combination above.  I was not able to finish anymore than 2/3 of these pillows of rich, earthy goodness, offset by appropriately bitter spinach and a sweet cream sauce.  This was hands down among the best gnocchi I have ever tasted, and its rainbow of natural colors by far the most beautiful I've seen.

La Bicyclette: Smoked Salmon Omelet with Mixed Greens
I've found that eggs--particularly omelets or poached--are actually very hard to find cooked right, but this omelet was textbook Parisian style, buttery and smooth, with a rich smoked salmon filling.  B was impressed.

I loved this cafe so much that on our next trip to this area, we will consider staying in Carmel-by-the-Sea instead of Monterey in part so that we can enjoy dinner here.  The price for the appetizer, two entrees, tax, and tip was $40 -- not an inexpensive lunch, but a great value!

Monday, November 8, 2010

Food Field Trip Napa: Ad Hoc

Ad Hoc Menu: Monday, October 25, 2010
We were fortunate to have not one but two Thomas Keller dining experiences while in Napa.  Our experience at The French Laundry was no doubt the highlight of all highlights, but Keller's more causal neighborhood eatery down the street Ad Hoc also won me over.  While the respective purpose--and atmosphere--among the two could not have been more different, it was clear that Ad Hoc shared the same focus on quality ingredients, preparation, and attention to detail.  It's not quite as daunting as the process as scoring a French Laundry reservation (chronicled here in a previous review), but Ad Hoc does fill up quickly; reservations --just as with its big sister restaurant down the street--are available two months to the calendar date.

Ad Hoc is actually a restaurant that was never meant to be.  Thomas Keller and his staff, as the story goes, began serving up seasonal fixed family-style dinners as a temporary endeavor while he planned for the opening of a gourmet burger joint for the space.  But the popularity and attention of this concept caused him to jettison these plans and his ad hoc concept stuck.  Dinner, served Thursday-Monday, consists of a seasonally rotating $49 four course pre fix.

When we arrived for our 7:15pm reservation the small street-front dining room was packed, and reservations were a bit backed up.  The staff was harried, and getting a drink at the bar was not easy; the bartender was busy tending to the folks eating at the bar (where according to insiders you can order a family style meal for one--if that makes any sense--and share the plentiful portions between two people).  It took a good ten minutes before we were acknowledged, but once seated, the experience was soon forgotten, as we were in for a fabulous meal.

Our waiter, a chubby, beer-loving Thomas Keller disciple, was a bit awkward at first, but really knew his stuff. After ensuring we did not have any allergies or alternative food preferences, he knowledgeably helped us select our wine, and later in the meal showed us where in the Encyclopedia-sized Ad Hoc cookbook it details how to make the finest caramel I've ever tasted.

Each of the generously portioned four courses was sublime.

Ad Hoc: Salad of Little Gems lettuce, cucumbers, olives, poached carrots, and Point Reyes blue cheese dressing
Fresh, crunchy, and sweet best describes this simple salad.  I loved how the saltiness of the olives was showcased and at the same time offset by the tang of the blue cheese dressing.  The lightly poached baby carrots added great color and flavor.

Ad Hoc: Pigfest with porchetta, pork loin, jalapeno corn bread, salad of fried sunchokes, watermelon radishes, rapini, and BBQ spaghetti
Mondays are barbecue night at Ad Hoc, and this course was one where the portion size and sheer variety was a challenge, but we persevered!  The pork loin was fork tender, succulent, and juicy, the porchetta, while a fattier cut benefited from the rich seasoning. The cornbread had a nice heat and a whole lot of butter.  Even the BBQ spaghetti, which I originally thought sounded like a slightly disgusting combination, had a great tangy/hot flavor which when tossed with the al dente spaghetti was quickly devoured (we were later told this dish can often be found at BBQ places in Memphis).  And despite the competition of ingredients on this plate, it was the vegetables that were our favorite.  The lightly fried sunchokes (the root of a sunflower) from the French Laundry garden were earthy, crunchy, and reached perfection with the punch of sea salt.  And the vibrant watermelon radishes made the whole plate pop.

Ad Hoc: Vermont Ayr atop fried potato cakes with pepper jelly
I am a huge fan of cheese courses.  But when tangy cheese is paired with fried potatoes, I have discovered that I am a fanatic. This was like cheese fries on steroids and according to my ears and eyes consistently drew raves from all diners within ear- and eye-shot.

Ad Hoc: Apple fritters with caramel sauce
Though we reached the last course already beyond full, dessert was so fantastic, that my stomach somehow made room for the crispy apple fritters, coated with cinnamon and sugar and complimented by the finger-licking, and apparently famous, caramel sauce.

For the value, I think Ad Hoc is the best casual dining bet in Napa I've yet to find.  As long as you are willing to go with the flow, and experience whatever the night's menu holds, you are in for a real treat.

Ad Hoc on Urbanspoon

Thursday, November 4, 2010

Food Field Trip Napa: Michael Chiarello's Bottega

Bottega is Michael Chiarello's nearly two year-old restaurant in an old winery building smack in the center of Yountville.  It has great energy, fantastic ambience, wonderfully attentive service, and a vibrant sense of fun--Michael himself is there most nights, personally greeting diners (as well as barking out orders to the kitchen staff)--but the food, regrettably, is not up to par with the stiff competition along these few blocks of culinary Mecca.  Of course, this particular strip in Napa Valley does include the best of the best: Ad Hoc (review to come), Bouchon, Bistro Jeanty, and Redd.  And this doesn't even count some of the other fantastic places the next town just north a few miles up the main drag through the Valley.  If only Bottega's kitchen could match the execution of the food with the service and space, then this restaurant would fit right in...it just needs some sort of spice!

Bottega boasts Yountville's largest dining room, which is beautifully conceived with its restored brick, high ceilings, and larger than life brass chandeliers.  In addition to the two main dining rooms, there is huge bar, and even bigger enclosed and heated porch (with its own fireplace).

Our service was flawless. The wine director was fantastic, allowing us to taste three of the Chiarello family wines, available in individual two-glass carafes.  The Chiarello wines were excellent, priced the same at the table as they are retail at the chef's store, Napa Style, next door.  The Petit Syrah had the robustness and fruit-forward flavor that the area is known for; I enjoyed the wine so much, that I went back the next day to to purchase a bottle ($52).

Presentation on all the food was top-notch.  It was the coming together of the ingredients in the overall flavor and taste of most dishes that somehow missed the mark.

Bottega: Burrata with roasted mushrooms, butternut squash, and caviar
The burrata appetizer began the meal on a high note, and I wished the rest of the plates were as well executed.  The sweetness of the cheese coupled with the salty caviar and woodsy vegetables was a treat.

Bottega: Artichoke two ways: with bitter greens and shave Parmesan
The artichokes were very good and I could have eaten a bucket full just of these paper thin fried wisps.  But the greens were far too bitter and overpowered both ways of the artichokes.

Bottega: House-made egg pappardelle veal, pork & porcini mushroom Bolognese, rosemary, parmigiano
The way the pappardelle stuck together gave it quite the gloppy texture; the bolognese needed something: maybe more heat? more richness?  Not sure, but more something!  Maybe another original Food Network alum can help out, lending some of the Babbo pasta secrets.

Bottega: Housemade pasta, rabbit ragu, and mascarpone cheese (I think...)
This pasta held up better, but again, the hearty meat sauce was calling out for more seasonings, and even that generous dollop of mascarpone could not save this dish.

For me though, the highlight of the evening turned out to be not the food, but a one-on-one with the chef.  And I freely admit I probably was not the most articulate--bordering on gushing--when B and I got to meet Michael Chiarello, and discuss his wines, the food, and his former Food Network show.  Michael clearly thrives off the energy of this venture.  He was so gracious with table after table of diners, including the throngs of cougars that troll the dining room and gawk at this "cutie patootie" (their words, not mine).  And according to our waiter, the presence of Michael at his restaurant is par for the course -- certainly a nice treat for diners and fans like us of the (original, not the current) Food Network.

Cheese: Meeting  Michael Chiarello
I really wanted to love this restaurant. Despite the pluses on atmosphere, passion, elaborate choreography of service, wines, and local ingredients, the food just does not click.  But I  should also note the prices are some of the most reasonable (take this for what it is worth, Napa is not inexpensive) in the area -- two appetizers, two pastas, dessert, wine, tax, and tip came to $155.

Bottega on Urbanspoon

Monday, November 1, 2010

Food Field Trip: The French Laundry

The French Laundry Garden
It feels surreal for me to type a review of The French Laundry.  This 4 1/2-hour long event not only seemed to fly by, but more importantly, proved a veritable art-form in all counts of food, wine, and service. 

Let me say up front that since this experience was full of memorable surprises, out of respect for both the institution as well as food lovers reading this, I will discuss my recent outing to the French Laundry in mostly general terms--the details of specific dishes, as well as their visuals, can only be properly experienced first-hand.

French Laundry Chef Scarecrow
The two big things to know before you even attempt to dine here are the reservations process and the cost. French Laundry takes reservations two months to the calendar date. With only sixteen tables, this is not an easy reservation to score.  Phone lines open at 10 Pacific time, and getting a table requires perseverance and a ton of luck (a few friends with the number on speed dial could not hurt either).  I tried two months in advance for three days, calling hundreds of times.  On the first day, I got through about twenty minutes after the lines opened, but my hopes were quickly dashed as the reservationist politely stated they were already full for the evening, but could but my name on the waiting list.

And on the Third Day, a miracle occurred.  Two minutes after the lines opened, they answered.  And there was a table.  I was elated.  The French Laundry apparently also releases one table for two and another for four on Opentable.

Next the cost.  This is likely a once in a lifetime dining experience, with prices to match.  The nine course tasting menu is $250 per person inclusive of service, and the wine list is incredible, but also priced luxuriously.  So a safe bet is that it's pretty easy find a comma in your check.  But if you love food, can afford the splurge, and are lucky enough to score a table, it is something every foodie should try.

French Laundry Entrance
We arrived early to do a photoshoot around the modest grounds, and met another equally excited couple there to celebrate their 30th anniversary.  Upon opening the blue door, I was so nervous--would this experience live up to expectations?  My fears were quickly assuaged as we were ushered to a table upstairs overlooking the garden.  From the moment we sat down to our after-dinner (requested) kitchen tour (where we met Tim Hollingsworth, the current chef de cuisine), the staff put us thoroughly at ease. Our server, the sommelier, and the countless other staff, provided thoughtful and thorough explanations of each dish as well as the wine pairings to match both the food (and our budget). 

Each of the nine courses and the several off-menu surprises were entertaining, unique, and tasted extraordinary.  The French Laundry does not repeat an ingredient throughout the meal, and each course, while never what we pictured -- always far more inventive than I could ever conceive -- elevated all ingredients into a mini-work of art.   The Foie Gras (a supplement) was quite literally flawless, the sorbet palette cleanser anything but ordinary, and the lobster, rabbit, and beef ingredients the best I've ever tasted.

I look at the experience like a private night at the theatre.  I can honestly say this is the best meal I have ever had, and (somewhat surprisingly) proved both unpretentious and unstuffy.  I am so thrilled that I was able to experience Thomas Keller's vision, and cannot say anything more than I highly recommend this one-in-a-lifetime experience.

French Laundry on Urbanspoon

Friday, October 22, 2010

Eating Around DC's Dream Food Field Trip


Fall is my favorite season: a slight chill in the air, vibrant colors, and ethereal light, make it the perfect time to travel.  Last year's fall food field trip took B and me to France, discovering an array of food finds in Paris, Beaune, and Lyon.  This year, B and I are staying domestic (lucky thing we didn't head to France this year) and are headed on Saturday to Monterey, Sunday Big Sur, and finally, Napa Valley next week for some over-the-top culinary adventures.

All of this will culminate with a dinner at French Laundry, which proved to be every bit as much of the hard-won, nail-biter of a reservation it is cracked up to be; this score required hundreds of redial attempts, and on the third day of trying two months to the day, luck struck. This trip is definitely going to be a bit over-the-top, but in the best way, with dinners already planned at Ad Hoc, Bottega, and Seirra Mar, and visits to several wineries (many via bike to work off those dinners).

We adore Napa and have been lucky enough to visit two times before, but have never done it like this .  This foodie is excited!  

So, Eating Around DC will be uncharacteristically quiet next week, far too busy eating and drinking to type. A detailed Northern California Food Field Trip Report will follow.  In the meantime, anyone have can't miss winery recommendations?  Do tell!

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Ray's Expands the Steaks

Readers know that B and I eat at Ray's the Steaks far more than we would even admit to.  And recently, with the addition of dry-aged, bone-on options on weekends, we have found ourselves drawn back To Ray's even more frequently.

The house-cut steaks range from filets to porterhouses to something called the "long bone," which looks like a cut that would have made Fred Flinstone happy.  While the prices are about $7-8 more than the traditional cuts, the flavors are intense and the meat is tender and moist.

And perhaps soon (fingers crossed!) we will have some new wine options to pair with these cuts, as butcher paper has finally gone up on the windows of the space next door, hopefully signally a soon-to-be-open Ray's the Glass.  A tentative cheers to that!


Ray's the Steaks on Urbanspoon

Monday, October 18, 2010

Fall Dining Guide Leads to Eating Around DC's First Bite of BGR

I always look forward to the Washington Post's Fall Dining Guide with a bit of trepidation because I fear that the new "it" place(s) will soon be overrun.  My type-A personality even carries over to dining guides (sad, but true).  So while I pride myself on knowing the ins and outs of DC dining, I am always overwhelmed by the newcomers I have yet to try, and some classic establishments (including Obelisk), that I still have not made it to. 

So with Tom's guide in hand via the Saturday early edition of Sunday's Post, I made quick use of it by trying BGR: The Burger Joint within hours of my initial read. With five locations, B and I opted for the closest one on Lee Highway, next to the always bustling Italian Store

BGR does a brisk Saturday lunch business, which allowed us some time to decide on our strategy to navigate the many menu options. We were a bit overwhelmed with the burger selections--should we go for the classic hamburger (with hormone free, grain fed beef), the Greek lamb burger, or the lobster one?--all of which are cooked to order.  We both opted for the classic burgers, me with the works including a spicy Mojo sauce and B with bacon and blue cheese.  The burgers were well seasoned, the fresh-made brioche bun was delicious and soaked in the juices, and there was nothing to complain about the toppings (caramelized onions, tomatoes, lettuce).  My only minor complaint is that the exterior of my burger (full disclosure: ordered medium well) was a bit too charred.


And while we enjoyed the burgers, the best part of this lunch was not the meat but the sides.  The thick cut, ridicoulously over-sized onion rings were almost sweet, and by far the best I have had in the area if not anywhere.  The double-fried yukon gold French Fries don't look like much, but their flavor and crunch combination worked perfectly.


What really seems to make BGR stand out is the quality of each and every ingredient.  It is the complete burger-joint package.  BGR soars well above Five Guys, and the sides trump Ray's Hellburger.  But as for the burgers themselves, I prefer Desperados (on U) and B is a Ray's Hellburger fanatic. 

BGR also offers milkshakes, which will no doubt draw me back.  That and an order of onion rings sounds like a pretty swell combination.

Quality does not come cheap; two burgers, one side of fires, one side of onion rings, and a diet coke, totaled $28!

One Dining Guide destination down, many, many more to go!

BGR: The Burger Joint on Urbanspoon

Friday, October 15, 2010

Casa Nonna

Casa Nonna, the Italian-American family style eatery from the BLT group, is a vast improvement over this Dupont location's former occupant, the California Pizza Kitchen...though I must admit that such an accomplishment could not be easier to attain.

Unlike BLT Steak, the prices here don't require an expense account, but the food is in no way the same caliber.  The standouts included the garlic bread (served gratis) and a lasagna with meat sauce, which contained sweet pillows of cheese filling enrobed in a rich sauce.  But there are some misses too.  The chicken parmigiana was thicker than the traditional Italian-American preparation and described by a friend as "chewy".  One of our dining companions remarked that some of the dishes were not "piping hot," likely indicating an unduly lag time on the warmer.


The large round tables, with built-in lazy susans, are great for sharing the family-style portions, which worked well with our party of six. One major issue with the dining room is the noise and the lack of any sort of sound absorption. The restaurant--even only 3/4 full--is extremely loud and nearly impossible to hear someone across the large table.

One anomaly--while everything from salads to entrees is meant to be shared, desserts (our tiramisu was delicious) are dainty.  While the presentation is creative, the individually-sized portion seemed incongruent to the concept. 


The service was attentive, but the up-selling attempts were overly transparent. This is certainly not the best Italian in DC, but by far better than the relatively new DC outpost of the infamous NYC originated Carmine's, of whose atmosphere and food I am highly skeptical of based on a recent happy hour experience, which emphasized quantity over quality.

I would recommend Casa Nonna as a fun option for groups as it provides choices to please pretty much everyone at prices that won't scare those who aren't accustomed to dining out in DC.  Casa Nonna also offers a carafe of decent house red wine (reminiscent of Ida's in Boston's North End) for $25, great for sharing.  Pastas which serve 2-3 hover around $20 and the shared entrees start at $28.

Casa Nonna on Urbanspoon

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Westend Bistro: Good but not the Best in the 'Hood

Eric Ripert's Westend Bistro is one of those places that has been on my must-try list for quite some time, but with such, delicious and varied options in the neighborhood (like Ris and Grillfish), B and I did not try it out until just this past weekend.

On a whim, rare for two type A planners that are notorious for making restaurant reservations weeks ahead of time, we called a half-hour in advance (following some potent and retro-priced martinis at Martins in Georgetown), and were able to secure an outdoor table on an unseasonably warm October evening.   We appreciated the last minute table on the patio, a pleasant, candle-lit space.  But, once seated, we discovered that 22nd Street is a highly trafficked roadway complete with semi trucks and tour buses.  Couple that with the adjacent fire station, and you have a veritable traffic symphony -- so next time inside!

The food overall was good to great. Bottom line, you can find better for the price in the immediate neighborhood (see above).  While the chef is known for his shortribs, the standouts were of the crustacean variety. If you do go, you will not be disappointed with the escargot and mushroom casserole appetizer, which brings out the earthiness of both, in a tender, buttery preparation perfect for a fall evening.


The shrimp and grits were bathed in a spicy tomato sauce with house-made chorizo.  The flavors gave this low country classic the feel of a paella.


The aforementioned shortribs were fork-tender, served over truffled mashed potatoes with root vegetables, but the depth of their flavor in no way compared to Central's take served over papardelle.

The wine list, is brief, but offers both reasonable options and splurge-worthy bottles.  We opted for a mid-priced Pinot Noir.  

The service was attentive and knowledgeable, including  the hostess catching B and I before we left one of our shopping bags at the table (must have been those martinis and that Pinot!)  Our dinner with two appetizers, two entrees, and a bottle of Pinot Noir, tax, and tip was $185.

Westend Bistro on Urbanspoon

Thursday, October 7, 2010

Cuba Libre DC: A Cacophony of Cuban Cuisine

Cuba Libre's DC outpost opened this past week to much hype, marketing "preview" prices in an attempt to lure skeptical Washingtonians (like B and me). All food menu items are 50% through Thursday and then a 25% discount from the 8th - 13th.

Good thing we didn't have to pay full fare for the food.  The descriptors that immediately come to mind: loud, beyond over-the-top themed (crossing way over the line into tacky); mediocre, overpriced food;  excellent mojitos.


Let me start with the decor.  They say the restaurant is designed to look like Havana in the 1950s with fake Spanish-style balcony facades along the wall and indoor street lamp replicas. Not being alive in the 50s coupled with never (sadly) having been to Cuba due to ridiculous US restrictions, I cannot speak to the authenticity of the design.  But the whole setup did bring to mind Disney World's Pirates of the Caribbean ride--I kept expecting anamatronic figures pop out of the windows above.  If that weren't itself over the top,  blasting Cuban music muddles with the dining room noise to such an extent that you have to yell across the table to converse.  Some of the kitsch is OK--soap in the restrooms dispensed from rum bottles and the check arriving in a cigar box--but, good God, most of the rest is headache-inducing. 

While the restaurant gets kudos for a well-trained, efficient staff, our waiter was easily the most annoying waiter we have ever had in DC.  Sadly, we are no stranger to his antics, we remembered his verbosity at an experience at an otherwise good restaurant (and will thus remain nameless) a few years ago.  He has been in the city a while, and half way through his six (!) minute recitation of the wonders of each and every appetizers, certain signature phrases reminded me of him and his aforementioned antics.  This guy did not stop.  The entree overview was closer to seven minutes, followed by the dessert introduction which I could not even bring myself to listen to.  With eyes glazed over, B and I shuddered every time he said he would be back, because we knew what was in store.  A for effort--someone payed attention in server training--and A+ for annoying!

I will say that the mojitos were extraordinary--the sugarcane is scraped in-house--and would be the only thing that would pull me back into this establishment. 


All drinks are made with house cane sugar, and this Pyrat Mojito had such a refreshing taste, that I could forget the manufactured surroundings for a minute.

Appetizers regularly range from $6 - 13 (when they say small, they mean it) and entrees from $18 - 32.  The food itself is decent, but in no way tastes as though it was inspired by a James Beard award winner (as the waiter reminded all of his tables many times) nor is it commensurate with the full-freight prices.  And certain unseasonal accouterments were just perplexing; to wit, the arroz con pollo was topped with tasteless tubes of asparagus.

The best options of our six courses of the night,were the big eye tuna ceviche, with coconut milk and jalapeno...


...and the ropa vieja, which was traditional and tender, served with plantains over white rice, though it could have used a bit more spice.


I should also mention that the toasted Cuban (it was actually closer to French) bread with mango butter was addictive and delicious.  But in my experience, Cuban food, like arroz con pollo, ropa vieja, and the trademark Cuban sandwich are often best enjoyed at local, hole-in-the-wall type restaurants.  While, again the food at Cuba Libre is not bad, the prices are way out of whack.   This horrified B as a Tampa native, since he was used to the massive flavorful $5 sandwiches of Ybor City, which, by the way, are made on bona fide Cuban bread.

Bottom line? Cuba Libre provides a themed dining experience in DC, and I have no doubt that tour buses, bachelorette, and birthday parties will soon descend.  But this not a dining experience I for one want to remember.

Cuba Libre on Urbanspoon

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Food Field Trip SoCal: Sunsets, Cocktails, and CA Cuisine

Georges at the Cove, a La Jolla landmark eatery, is a destination in and of itself, where bar snacks, patio fare, and fine cuisine are all available in these respective three stories, all of which have tremendous sunset views over the Pacific.  And while the food is reliably good -- even though the selection is a bit limited on the patio -- the cocktails keep us coming back when we are in San Diego. I cannot imagine a better way to end a day and begin the evening than by enjoying a fresh-made cocktail at sundown with the sea lions frolicking below.


Our cocktail choices were a blood orange margarita, whose color matches the sunset, and a classic, oaky, Napa chardonnay. Cocktails and wine hover in the $10 - $12 range. I recommend an early evening reservation to take it all in.

George's California Modern on Urbanspoon

Until this most recent trip, I would also have recommended dinner at Georges if you only had once night to spend in La Jolla, but thanks to a more than memorable dining experience, that recommendation has moved further down the boulevard to Nine Ten.  Here a rising star chef, Jason Knibb, is creating some of what I have found to be the best fine dining in San Diego, and while the street-side dining room lacks the storied views elsewhere on the strip, the food and warm decor will garner no complaints from me.

Standouts from the well executed restaurant week menu (fortunate timing) included a textbook poached egg over crispy brussel sprouts, an outstanding harpoon-caught swordfish fillet (whose seared exterior yielded to a moist, flaky center), and a richly enjoyable half-baked chocolate cake accented with what tasted like a just-made caramel sauce.


Wine pairings were thoughtful, bringing out the flavors of each course.  I was impressed that the server was able to find an as requested red pairing for my fish--a pinot noir, that complimented instead of overwhelmed the delicate preparation.


The kitchen here is on to something, and if you are in the area, and appreciate fresh, locally sourced and inventive food creations, do give this a try.  The restaurant week menu was a steal at $40 for three courses with wine pairings for $15.  Entrees regularly run in the mid-$20s. 

Nine Ten on Urbanspoon

Friday, October 1, 2010

Food Field Trip SoCal: Vintage Venice

The only thing I knew about Venice Beach before visiting last week was that it was the setting for Showtime’s quirky Californication and home to Hank Moody. I didn’t expect to stumble upon some of the best Mexican food I have enjoyed on this side of the border at La Cabana.

La Cabana is not fancy or high-brow, or modern. It is in fact a quirky throwback, and walking through the doors seems like stepping back in time to 1970-something. The dark wood interior is full of once vibrant Baja-style colorful tiling, and a wood-fired tortilla oven is manned by a grand-motherly looking tortilla steward that must have been old at the restaurant’s opening.


The food was hearty, traditional, and textbook vintage Mexican cooking.

My tortilla soup had a moderately spicy broth which was studded with corn, peppers, and queso fresco and topped with crunchy tortilla strips.

The beef in my quesadilla tasted like it had been braising for weeks, and also included outstanding cheese and avocado. The core ingredients came together in a way that elevated it from simple to memorable.


The marinated pork had a subtle heat, was fork tender, and the accompanying refried beans were not the mush that you so often find. The piping-hot homemade tortillas were simply divine.


Prices are also a welcome throwback at $8 - $15 for huge portions, and authentic Mexican home cooking. It is worth the trip to Venice and is located about a mile off the infamous strip. For a complete evening and a real feel of Venice, I recommend starting on the strip with a sunset, pre-dinner beer at Danny’s Venice.

La Cabana on Urbanspoon