How will it end? The Trials of an Ice Cream Pioneer

When I heard the news that Friendly's filed for bankcrupcy earlier this week, a wave of sadness and nostalgia washed over me. This cannot happen. Where else can you get peanut butter sauce, cone head and happy endings but at this classic New England-based ice cream mecca? 

I first heard the news late last week when Gawker cheekily proclaimed Friendly's Faces an Unhappy Ending. For anyone who grew up on the casual dining ice cream mecca that is (soon-to-be was) Friendly's, you immediately understand the reference.  Like hundreds of thousands of others growing up in New England, for years I was blissfully ignorant of the other meaning of that term and instead, looked at a happy ending as something sweet and exciting; sort of like Friendly's itself.

Friendly's is an indelible part of so many childhood memories.  I longed for hot and humid summer evenings, a relative rarity in central Massachusetts.  But on such nights, my family often retreated to one of two local Friendly's to enjoy air conditioning, a kid's meal of of chicken fingers, and of course, a cone head sundae.  This was pure childhood bliss.

While I aged out of the kid's meal, the place remained a go-to middle and high school hangout after football games.  Full of teenage angst and mozzarella sticks, my friends and I would spend countless evenings and hours occupying the red and green pleather banquets.

Friendly's is trying to reinvent itself, but unlike the shudder-worthy TGI Friday's or Applebees, profit margins are low--Friendly's does not serve alcohol, only Fribbles and Coca Cola.   Friendly's recently unveiled an express option offering a limited menu and of course the ice cream they are known for in more urban settings like in Boston's Coolidge Corner.  While Friendly's Express has not yet ventured into DC, you can find (for now!) Friendly's restaurants dotted throughout the VA and MD suburbs.  If you have never experienced a Friendly's sundae, what are you waiting for?  Time may be running out.

Grape Juice for Adults

Food Field Trip Napa Valley 2010

A glass of crisp chardonnay on a summer day cools and refreshes. A flute of champagne exudes excitement and celebration. A Burgundy on a brisk fall evening warms and charms.  And let's face it, in a city that works as hard and as much as DC, I am one of many wine worshippers. 

Rohan over at District 365 has decided to do something to address the appetites of DC oenophiles.  Recognizing the market for wine delivery and the desire for wine-themed dinners, classes, and tastings, Rohan is getting ready to create a virtual hub for all things wine in DC. 

In celebration of the launch, District 365 is running a contest for a wine getaway in the burgeoning wine regions of Virginia and Maryland.  While admittedly I have not yet come to appreciate our local wine market (and am not sure I ever will), a weekend in the country imbibing on local wines gratis does not sound half bad.  Click here to enter and learn more about District 365 Wine.

The Big Cheese: Grilled Cheese on Wheels

On countless mornings this summer, I jogged by a curious site parked in Rosslyn: a truck with a suspiciously happy grilled cheese sandwich painted on the side.  But at 7 in the morning, the truck was in sleeping not serving mode.  It was not until this past Saturday at Clarendon Day that I saw the Big Cheese Truck in action.  I was so excited that I think I may have even started to run out of a force of habit.

As B and I eagerly bellied up to the counter, the owner detailed the menu as happily as the smiling bread logo watched over patrons.  The Midnight Moon, a combination of goat, gouda, and caramelized onions on multigrain, sounded like the ideal fall lunch.  And at $6, it was all that a grilled cheese should be, simultaneously gooey and indulgent.  But unlike your standard order grilled cheese, the savory, sweet combination of the gouda and goat cheese was a distinctively adult take on a childhood classic.

It does not get much better than an indulgent grilled cheese sandwich paired with a Blue Moon Harvest beer enjoyed together at an outdoor street festival on a fall afternoon.  In my mind, it was the perfect autumn lunch.  To follow this cheese and determine if it will be coming to a location near you, click here.

Food (Almost) Field Trip: Volt

Maine Lobster Prepared a la Volt, Frederick

Without traffic on I-270 (how often does that happen?), Frederick, Maryland is a 45 minute drive from DC; in rush hour (most of the afternoon), it can take twice the time.  So to Eating Around DC, dining in Frederick falls somewhere between "local" and a "food field trip."  Bryan Voltaggio's acclaimed Volt occupies a restored 19th century mansion in the heart of Frederick.  The setting is both historical and charming, but what is the best way for DC residents to fully enjoy the experience given the distance?  That is the question B and I have been asking ourselves.  And this past weekend we decided to stay at a bed and breakfast in Frederick to fully embrace this adventure.

Volt itself soared (details below), but the overnight experience did not!  I will start with the bad in case you are considering such an escape.  Frederick is small, charming and remote--the perfect setting for a quiet night away, right?  Wrong.  At Hill House, a mere block  from Volt, the noise throughout the dead of a Thursday night was unreal, and louder than any hotel we have ever stayed in -- London, Rome, Paris, or New York.  Owing to a street sweeper, trash truck, and perhaps, though I can't be sure, helicopter, all of which made extended cameos between 2 and 4am, I cannot condone the place.  The Victorian windows of the B and B were no guard against any of this noise.  But Volt is worth the trip, and the afterglow of such a dining experience should be allowed to shine, so save yourself the frustration and go with another after-dinner plan (drive, car service, or maybe a country inn nearby).

The white tablecloth dining room at Volt is minimalistic and elegant.  You enter through a tiled doorway under a mosaic that simply and appropriately proclaims Eat.  The numerous servers are darting around everywhere in their trademark brown converse sneakers.  Simultaneously attentive and palpably nervous, they purport that the menu, priced a la carte, is designed so that you can enjoy all four courses, but the portions we ordered were large enough that many could have easily been shared. 

While the menu was presented--and orders solicited--with a bit of haste, after the cocktails arrived, the pacing improved markedly.  With my first sip of a cherry-infused concoction and my first bite of a foie gras-infused fennel macaroon, Volt won me over.  This is dining as entertainment, with flavors (vegetable ash), textures (soy air), and presentation (vibrant colors set off against oversized white plates) all coming together as a cast of characters to entertain the palate and the eye.

The six varietals of bread were all addictive.  The bacon brioche was a buttery puff of sweetness; the cheddar and chive biscuit was a savory Southern-inspired bite.  Unlimited house-filtered sparkling water is complimentary and refilled consistently throughout the meal.

The ingredients of each course were artfully deconstructed on the plate, and the flavors merged in your mouth.  A hearty cylinder of Hudson Valley foie gras was as rich as would be expected, but that was offset tastefully by the color and sweetness of crimson watermelon cubes and cucamelon slivers; the accompanying mini brioche loaf was quite adorable (and delicious). A pasta course of Cherry Glen Farm goat cheese ravioli, yellow corn, vegetable ash, maitake mushrooms, and balsamic brown butter tasted like a perfect early fall harvest on a plate.  The protein portion of the entrees was the star of the show.  B ordered chicken and I opted for lobster, which were heightened by the colorful and rich sides of bacon lardons and tender carrots respectively.  Dessert tasted as good as it looked.  A deconstructed carrot cake was moist and ethereal with a spiced foam; a rich cheesecake was offset in both color and flavor by vibrant purple figs.

This is not your average meal and while not as pricey as similar caliber restaurants in the heart of DC, it is a culinary investment.  An over-the-top dinner for two with four courses, cocktails, and wine, was upwards of $300.   And in case you want more (and I think you will), each diner leaves with an individual coffee cake for the next morning.

Cava Mezze's Spicy Balls

Dip Sampler at Clarendon's Cava Mezze

With all the buzz about Ben and Jerry's release of Schweddy Balls ice cream, I found it an amusing coincidence that the majority of items we ordered this past Friday at Cava Mezze came in spherical form. 

As the name suggests, Cava Mezze's speciality is small plates of Greek-style tapas.   The Clarendon location is the third and latest branch of this burgeoning micro-chain, but last Friday was my first experience.  I am half-Greek, and while I have always enjoyed lamb prepared by my grandmother on Easter and Mediterranean food in general, I have found oftentimes Greek cooking to be relatively bland, with earthy flavors, but not a lot of heat.  I realized I have been eating at the wrong places--none of the dishes we tried at Cava was in the least bit bland.  Every dish--from the mac and cheese to lamb meatballs--had a lively personality all its own. 

The dip sampler consisted of six orbs of unique dips, whose ingredients included salty feta, jalapenos, and red pepper.  The calamari, pepped up with banana peppers and tempered with a cucumber yogurt sauce, was reminiscent of one of my favorite Greek-influenced Providence College haunts.  Zucchini fritters were in the form of what else but balls.  These two-bite explosions, the star of the evening, combined thin shreds of the vegetable with gooey cheese, which were  then rolled and fried to a crisp.

And it was not only the balls that were spicy.  My cucumber jalapeno margarita was refreshingly intense--the cucumber put out the fire of the drink's slight burning burst.  This $9 cocktail was excellent, and I point this out because while a new micro-brew tap house springs up seemingly weekly along the Rossyln-Ballston corridor, finding a well-crafted cocktail generally requires heading over the river into DC.

Cava Mezze's flavorful dishes, potent drinks, and sleek dining space is a welcome addition to the Clarendon dining scene.  Just be forewarned, the volume inside is impossibly loud.  Hopefully, soundproofing is installed soon, as the volume level is not sustainable for patrons, let alone the waitstaff.  But, oh those spicy balls...

Current Mexican Fix: Taqueria Poblano

Taqueria Poblano Tres Enchiladas

I am a Mexican food junkie.  I love the confluence of spicy and sweet, the succulent meats, and the liberal use of cheese, beans, and avocado.  This past month, I have been repeatedly drawn back to Del Ray's Taqueria Poblano.  This haven of authentic, smokey Mexican food and potent margaritas has two locations: in Arlington off of Lee Highway, and along Mount Vernon Avenue in Del Ray. 

The small storefront cafe in Del Ray is always bustling at lunchtime on the weekends.  A brightly colored dining room is staffed by a surprisingly efficient skeleton crew of 3 to 4 men who navigate the impossibly small and packed dining room, shuttling drinks and steaming hot plates from the kitchen. 

B and I have both repeatedly ordered the "tres enchiladas."  The combination of stewed meats: chicken, beef, and pork is nestled between corn tortillas topped with melted cheese and a handful of pickled onions.  This tasty trio is then placed atop a red chili sauce.  The combination of the tender, spiced meats and the smokey, sweet (with a slightly bitter after-taste) sauce makes this dish click.  The guacamole and pico de gallo are always fresh and help to offset the deep, earthy flavors of this dish.  If I had one complaint, it would be the lack of flavor in the re-fried beans, which serve as a limp, sad side.  Though I have never left hungry -- those enchiladas pack a punch, both flavorful and filling   At $13.95 each, Taqueria Poblano is an affordable Mexican escape.

Food Field Trip: Mythical, Magical New Orleans

New Orleans is a city shrouded in historical legend; its dining scene is no exception.

Where else but New Orleans is there an open-air 24 hour table-service restaurant, Cafe Du Monde, that serves but one thing? The beignet order consists of three larger-than-life hot puffs of sweet fried dough, topped with easily a half box of powdered sugar. Whether you are an eager toddler or a seasoned traveler, a big plate of beignets is the of stuff of legend (albeit a very well publicized one) at an incongruously affordable price ($2.50).


If you yearn for a more refined destination, hop the St. Charles streetcar (a throwback which moves at equally historic speed) down the majestic oak-lined avenue to Commander’s Palace uptown. While I have blogged about the Commander’s magic before, I would be remiss not to mention one of its lesser known charms. Request the upstairs dining room and you will find yourself eating in a tree forest. With the garden lights illuminating the same type of oak trees which align St. Charles, I always find myself transported, and that is before the dining pageant begins.

While he got his start with the Commander’s magic, Emeril Lagasse has been his own NOLA sorcerer for years.  Like the Brennans' establishments, his restaurants' team service is down to the last detail.  I was equally as impressed with Delmonico as I was on my first visit some four years ago.  This time it was the presentation and flavor of a gargantuan soft shell crab.  Fittingly, the crab was locally sourced from a place by the name of Grand Isle. The crustacean was certainly befitting of its place of origin, and appeared to have descended from the dinosaurs.  It was perfectly fried, topped with a zesty tomato sauce,laid over a corn salsa, and seemingly devouring a handful of lightly dressed baby spinach.

Eating Around DC Hurricane Hunkering

Arlingtontians Stocking up before the Storm

Back-to-back posts with a natural disaster theme is a first for Eating Around DC.  In the words of the Barefoot Contessa, how bad could that be?  I guess we will see...

With Hurricane Irene upon us, B and I have stocked up on the essentials.  These include a $30 case of water (gasp).  Apparently that is what happens when you wait until the last minute and  head to the Clarendon Whole Foods on Friday night.  This box o' Volvic (could that name be anymore disturbing?) is sitting in a corner complete with the receipt because should we not need it, we will swiftly be returning it on Monday.  $30 for a bottle of wine, liquor, or a case of beer, is fine but $30 for water is the height of Arlington absurdity and a clear indication that DC is in disaster mode.

Speaking of, the Arlington Farmers Market convened briefly this morning.  While it was a skeleton crew, relocated behind the CVS on 15th street, those farmers that were able to attend made sure that we did not miss even one week of tomato season.  Thank you!

And not sure what tonight holds, but am guessing cabin fever will certainly ensue by tomorrow.  A perfect Sunday escape may just be Bar Dupont if you are looking for an excuse to get out of the house and drown your sorrows over a missed weekend at the beach.  In addition to their panoramic view of Dupont Circle and potent well-mixed cocktails, they will be offering $5 themed drink specials like the ubiquitous Hurricane and a predictably strong Irene (Belvedere Intense Vodka, Peach Schnaps, Blue Curacao, and Sour mix).

Eating Around DC Earthquake Edition

Hot N' Sour Soup before the Shake

I just experienced my most memorable lunch, though not for the reasons one might ordinarily expect.  A 5.8 magnitude Earthquake struck the DC area while I was slurping on hot and sour soup at TNR Cafe in Arlington.  I intended to blog about the cafe for its simple, spicy, vegetarian soup, which is a great value ($2).   All true, but as a Washingtonian, an earthquake is not something I was even remotely prepared for.

About fifteen people, mostly single diners occupied the restaurant, a small storefront in Courthouse, when the building started to shake slightly.  A few audible hmmms (akin to, that was interesting....I wonder what is happening), and then the shaking intensified including an ominous, low rumbling sound.  I am not sure who ran first, but soon everyone was sprinting for the door; it was quite chaotic (proof of my panic: I even left my iPhone on the table).  After a minute of stunned silence on the sidewalk, relief set in.  Yes, that was an earthquake (and not the bomb attack every DC resident fears) and everyone seemed to be okay.  The servers hugged, reassured the diners that it was safe to go back in, and then continued to feed a previously hungry and now (literally) shaken crowd.  Check please!

Food Field Trip: Do you know what it means to miss...

Parkway Bakery and Tavern Shrimp Po Boy

...New Orleans?  The spirit and culture of the city--its people, its food, its music--are infectious.  Allow me to relay but one story.

On my last day in the city yesterday, I happened to step into Marlin William’s cab outside of the New Orleans convention center.  Marlin is a large, gregarious, cheerful man with a low booming voice who drives a very clean and well air-conditioned (a rarity!) cab.  He was only supposed to drive me back to the hotel, but asked if he could also take me to the airport later that day.  While it seemed a tad odd, I eagerly agreed to the plan after he promised a stop at his favorite po-boy shop, Parkway Bakery and Tavern.  While I had originally suggested we swing by Domilise’s (since I've actually never tried it in the half-dozen times I've been to New Orleans), Marlin claimed Parkway's po-boy would be superior, and backed up his claim by offering to buy my lunch if I was not satisfied.  This money-back-guarantee, coupled with the fact he took no money from me for the fare to the hotel (trusting – yes some people still do that -- that we would settle up once I got to the airport) sounded like a sure bet.  So just as we had planned, he came back to the hotel a half hour later, cheerfully loaded my bags, and off we went.

Marlin not only introduced me to Parkway, but he called my order in ahead of time and insisted on going inside and getting it for me –hallmark New Orleans service.  Marlin explained that the secret to a good po boy is its freshness, and he told me that at Parkway Bakery, all ingredients are delivered, made, and prepared daily – no pre-fab sandwiches here.  And Marlin’s charms were evident when I got to the airport and unwrapped  my lunch, complete with the extra pickles I requested.  This $12 foot-long behemoth was overflowing with what must have been 30 freshly fried, plump, tender, and slightly spiced shrimp sandwiched in between crusty French bed, dressed with the classic lettuce, tomato, pickles, and mayonnaise. My heart soared and stomach sang as I made quick work of this indulgent lunch, glancing up to see other airport passengers staring longingly at my po boy.

Marlin was born and raised in the city, which he has only left briefly (for Texas) when Katrina struck, and he knows what it means to miss New Orleans--he returned to his home city as soon as he was able.  Marlin is happy; he loves what he does and clearly adores introducing visitors to his city.  A former New Orleans bus driver, Marlin now moonlights as a tourguide.  While my convention schedule did not allow for a tour, I am thinking of taking Marlin up on that option on my next visit.  Marlin does not have a blog or a website or a twitter handle (he is far to busy showing visitors the true NOLA), but he does have a phone number.  I am sharing it here, because if you want to experience the true face of New Orleans, give him a call: (504) 344 5300.  Whether it is for an airport pick-up complete with a po boy en route or a local's city tour, I have no doubt that you will quickly catch the infectious spirit of New Orleans.

Food Field Trip: New Orleans When the Herb-Saints Go Marching In...

...I want to be at that table!  The regenerative power of a good meal is one of the reasons I live to dine out.  After a long day of shuttling between countless conference sessions in the New Orleans summer heat, my colleagues and I were drained.  Not dissimilar to the dog we passed earlier that day, we needed a pick-me- up.  On we went to Herbsaint, Donald Link's ode to Southern cuisine with a New Orleans twist. 

From start to finish, dining at Herbsaint, located on St. Charles Avenue in the Warehouse District, was rejuvenating and exciting.  The dining room is understated and warmly lit; the waitstaff is enthusiastic and knowledgeable--their recommendations from wine to appetizers were spot on.  The care that went into each of the dishes was evident in the presentation, taste, and the clean plates that were taken away. 

My appetizer of shrimp and grits showcased fresh-caught gulf shrimp (delivered daily by a gentleman named Dino), which were enrobed in a spicy roux, studded with tasso ham, and charred ocra atop a cake of creamy grits.  Another appetizer of homemade spaghetti, topped with a fried-poached farm egg, was eagerly devoured.  But seriously, an egg that is perfectly fried and poached--who knew?  As we continued on through to the entrees, the clean plate trend continued.  The fish of the day was fork tender and perked up with green chilis.  And for dessert, the ice creams were the perfect end to the meal.  Both cafe au lait and salted caramel varieties quickly disappeared, so no photographic evidence exists.

So here's to the good works of those Herbsaints!

Food Field Trip: New Orleans Sips and Bites

Carousel Bar, Hotel Monteleone

What else but work could compel someone to visit New Orleans in August?  The heat is oppressive, but the dining scene is as always impressive!  My plan is to highlight some of my favorite sips and bites throughout the week.  And thanks to my new iPhone, I'll have better pictures.

First stop, the Carousel Bar at the historic Hotel Monteleone.  Dating to 1949, the bar is actually a rotating (albeit at a very slow speed) carousel.  A portion of the bar area is currently under construction, but the carousel is still spinning and the bartenders are still shaking.  The Hemingway ($12), a blend of rum, fresh lime and grapefruit juices is a perfect antidote for the summer heat.  And where else can you enjoy craft cocktails from a perch on a merry-go-round!

In the last few years John Besh has opened more restaurants than Emeril Lagasse.  Luke, his newest, has the feel of a German/French brasserie and marries Alsacean cuisine with New Orleans cooking.  The savories were solid, but the stand out was the decadent bread pudding ($8).  A sweet symphony of vanilla, bourbon, and caramel.  This hot and cold dessert is a temptress worth the indulgence.  I may return just for dessert.

Tasting History at America Eats Tavern

There are times when even in August, the cruelest month in DC, when I think, wow, I am still so lucky to live here.  Dinner at America Eats Tavern last Sunday was one of those times.  Where else but in Washington can you learn about the far-reaching effects of government policies on food consumption and then walk a few blocks to taste the history?!

I have twice before in this town tried eating history, and on one of these occasions  thought I would have been a much more svelte human being if I were to have lived through colonial times.  But dinner at America Eats Tavern is making me question my original judgment of early American fare.

A partnership between Jose Andres and the National Archives exhibit, What’s Cooking Uncle Sam?,  America Eats is a “pop-up” restaurant which (appropriately) debuted on July 4^th and is slated to remain open until January.  The menu is the result of countless hours of historical research (and is akin to reading, in a fun way, a history textbook) and reinterpretations of American classics dishes from cocktails to desserts.  More casual fare is available in the open-seating bar area on the first floor.

Pictures of Americans eating through the ages adorn the former (and still cramped) Cafe Atlantico space.  The menu explains the origin and history of every dish and the wait staff provide thorough detail on their modern interpretation.  Highlights of our meal included "vermicelli prepared like pudding," which was topped by a salty parmesan crust and accompanied by meaty mushrooms and de-boned buffalo wings, which were thus totally appropriate for white table cloth dining.  Crab cakes were paired with a salad of juicy watermelon, pungent goat cheese, and pickled rind.  And for dessert fresh strawberries were hollowed out and filled with strawberry gelatin and sandwiched between flaky, thin shortcake.  And all our cocktails--from the Martini to the Moscow Mule to the Whiskey Sour to the Brooklyn--did not disappoint.

Several dishes are only available certain days of the week, so I now have the perfect excuse to go back and try the rest of the menu!  I also cannot think of a more fun way to expose out-of-town guests to DC.  While the service was a bit slow at times (though I've found this is not unusual for Sunday night dining), the wait staff was responsive and knowledgeable.  Reservations fill up a few weeks in advance, so plan ahead.  Dinner for two with way too many appetizers, entrees, dessert, four cocktails, tax and tip was $200.

Friday Night in DC: Sculpture, Jazz, and Free Drinks

Readers know that Jazz in the Sculpture Garden is one of my favorite DC summer activities.  Every summer Friday from 5-8:30 through September 9th, the National Sculpture Garden plays host to a variety of jazz groups and styles.  There is a (mostly) full bar on hand, but there is nothing like a glass of the sangria to ease into the weekend.

This summer, with temps seemingly in the upper 90's to low 100's every weekend, the weather has been much too hot to enjoy this DC summertime tradition.  But with today's highs only forecasted to reach the upper 80's, why not give it a try?

Still not convinced?  How about a free drink after the event?  Head to the Redline in Penn Quarter (a short walk away) after the concert.  Simply belly up to the bar, tell the bartender who performed at Jazz in the Garden, and enjoy a complimentary glass of champagne or draft beer. 

Let the weekend begin!

Food Field Trip Cape Cod: Eating at the Edge of the Earth

Not quite the Potomac!

As a true New Englander at heart, I believe there is no better summer vacation destination than Cape Cod--on which there is no place more unique, beautiful, or quirky than Provincetown.  Bordered by the National Seashore and Cape Cod Bay, Provincetown is quite literally a spit of sand at the end of the earth.  But its history is also intriguing; the place where the Pilgrims first landed has continually reinvented itself.  What was once a whaling community later became a Portuguese fishing village, artists’ colony, and wealthy gay hot spot.  The dozens of  restaurants also reflect these same values of openness, eclecticism, and diversity.

Because my increasingly hectic real-life schedule has delayed this post (don't you hate that?!), I am going to provide an all-in-one “day in the life” highlights of my favorite spots this season for casual fare (a fine dining wrap up will come later this week).  We hit all of the referenced links during the span of a week, so be forewarned – should you actually attempt all these eating feats in one day, I cannot be held responsible for your flavor and calorie overload! 

Breakfast
Connie’s Bakery, which we discovered this summer had relocated to Commercial Street's Aquarium Arcade, is a perfect morning spot to fuel up before kayaking to Long Point or embarking on a whale watching excursion to Stellwagen Bank.  Warm, fresh-baked focaccia sandwiching a cooked-to-order egg, gooey white cheddar cheese, and crisp bacon makes for a hearty, flavorful breakfast.  At around $5 it is a quick and affordable bet. Take your sandwich to the dock at the end of the arcade, where you there is ample outdoor seating overlooking the bay.

Lunch
Mima's Deli, new to the scene this year, provides shockingly authentic Cuban fare.  This was not something I expected, but in Ptown, nothing is ever as it seems.  And since B and I are eagerly anticipating our first trip to Cuba this fall, we had to check out this counter-service restaurant (if only to browse the Havana photography exhibit).  While the photographs were just average, the Race Point Road location is perfectly placed for grabbing lunch on the way to one of B's favorite beach's (in the world).  The Cuban sandwich is well worth the near $10 price tag.  What really sets this authentic sandwich apart is the fresh, slow roasted spiced Cuban pork.  Just bring two things: cash (no ATM on site and credit cards are not accepted) and patience (just feel the authenticity).  The reward is a hot pressed sandwich that is oozing with flavor and reminiscent of the Cuban sandwiches B grew up on in Tampa.

Cocktails
So you have no doubt by now worked up quite the thirst -- kayaking, whale watching, and/or beaching -- all hard work!  Time to relax with a cold beverage, for which I have two recommendations.

If you are the mood for air conditioning (central air is a rarity up this far on Cape Cod and in fact rarely necessary), head to the East End's oh-so-classic Mews for what will be the best martini you will have on Cape Cod.  As one of the few year-round restaurants in Provincetown, the Mews holds a special place in my heart, as it is where B and I enjoyed dinner on a bitingly cold February night almost ten years ago after getting engaged.  With an unparalleled selection of vodkas, you cannot go wrong with any of the drinks (on the other hand, the food has fallen off in recent years).  The mistress of the martini behind the bar is seasoned and skilled; this is one of my favorite martini spots anywhere.


If you find yourself closer to the East End and in a more casual mood, stop by the open-air Nor'East Beer Garden.  This new place takes both elements of its title seriously with a great selection of on-tap craft beers (including selections from Nantucket and the Berkshires) served amid a courtyard landscaped with wild flowers and filled with equally wildly floral characters.

Dinner
This year mimicked last in that my favorite Ptown bar (dare I say, Gastropub), The Squealing Pig, was a frequent stop.  For a quintessential Cape Cod dinner, you cannot go wrong with a half dozen Wellfleet oysters ($10).  Follow that up with the fish and chips ($15).  Fresh caught and fried, served with house-cut fries and a homemade vinegar-based colesaw, this is a swimmingly delightful end to a day at the beach.  And to wash it all down, Harpoon's Oyster Stout, a unique 100-barrel series offering of the Boston-based brewery, combines barley, chocolate rye malts, and the briny, mineral flavor of the oysters.

Dessert
My favorite newcomer to the town's food scene this year was easily PTown Scoop. This family-owned ice cream parlor is located steps from the wharf where we rent a bay front condo each year.  I blame this proximity for my four visits!  But it was the friendly service and the over-the-top creamy ice cream flavors that kept me coming back.  From chocolate peanut butter to cake batter to mocha chip, all of the ice cream is decadent, lovingly scooped, and best enjoyed strolling down Commercial Street.  Plus there is something about Cher playing in the background that makes ice cream all the more fun -- this is Provincetown after all!

Medium Rare Heats up Cleveland Park

Medium Rare is an impressive one-trick pony.  For $19.95 you get an uber-fresh mixed green salad accompanied by rustic bread, prime, dry aged cap steak, thinly sliced, cooked to order, which is served with a secret sauce and flanked by hand cut fries.

The influence of Ray's the Steaks--where manager Brian Zipin had a brief stint following a very successful run at Central--is apparent in the stripped down dining room and limited menu.  Like the original Ray's, there is a warm intimate neighborhood feel, perhaps owing to the fact that Medium Rare's space is small and that it does not take reservations.  While a line reportedly starts forming at 5pm on weekends, B and I walked in for dinner last Wednesday with no wait.

The service was friendly and efficient.  Waiters note drink orders and steak preferences on the butcher block paper, which covers the table.  The limited wine and beer list is moderately priced and well-suited to the menu. 

What it does it does excellently.  I am pretty sure the crusty, warm bread is the same that is served at Central.  The mixed green salad's crisp butter lettuce is tossed with a lovely vinaigrette.  The steak comes out in two parts--so do not dismay if your original serving size does not meet expectations.  Upon completing your first course, a server will be back around--without you having to ask--with more steak and fries.  Trust me, you will want both. 

The dessert menu offers the only choice of the evening (unless you are a vegetarian and opt for the portebella mushroom in place of the steak).  With five alluring options (carrot cake, cheesecake, etc), I could not pass up the massive hot fudge sundae.  Rainbow sprinkles, whipped cream, and nuts top the luscious fudge and creamy vanilla ice cream.  Desserts are sized to share among two if not three or four people.

Medium Rare is just as playful with its soundtrack, which is somewhere between Five Guys and Mario Batali's rock-fueled NYC dining rooms.  And on a bathroom break you can learn French pick up lines akin to "my apartment has a hot tub," making it a great date option!